Ohne Titel Fall/Winter 2011 Backstage

Backstage at Ohne Titel, futuristic, goth, and “spacey” were the words on everyone’s lips.

MAC Makeup artist Lisa Butler created a strong, smokey eye, that mimicked a cat-eye shape, without making the eye appear smaller.

To get the look:
Start with MAC Studio Moisture Fix on the face. Touch up any imperfections with Studio Finish Concealer.

On eyes:
Blend Creme Shadow in “Blase” around the entire eye. Starting in the crease, blend into a point in the outer corner of the eye. Finish by blending in a straight line below the eye. Use Mac Eyeshadow “Charcoal Brown” in contours to add definition. Finish with Mac Eye Kohl “Smolder” lining the inner corner of top lashes.

On lips: Mac Glamglass “Entertain Me” was applied to the outer corners of lips.

Hair was inspired by NASA space suits. Jimmy Paul for Bumble and Bumble created a half up/half down modified corn-row look that left hair sleek, in order to balance out the large shoulders on the clothing.

Extensions were woven in to add length and fullness.

The finished product:

How to achieve this look: Hair was braided into four cornrows. Black thread was woven around the braids to pull them together, and keep them tight against the head.

All photos ®2011 Maureen Kaveney for The Greyest Ghost.

Katie Gallagher Fall/Winter 2011

Katie Gallagher is hands down one of my favorite up-and-coming New York designers, and one of the hardest working people I’ve ever met. Every single season, she comes up with amazing visual themes and concepts that she expertly translates into her clothing. Which she designs, cuts, and sews out of her apartment.

One of my biggest fall 2011 regrets is that I got so sick (thanks to running around in 20 degree weather all week!) that I missed her show. Luckily, my amazing assistant photographer Maureen was able to step in help cover the presentation, at Milk Studios.

Katie’s Fall collection was entitled “Gris-Gris”, and inspired by Vodoo culture. (Learn more about A Gris-gris, a sort of magical talisman here.)

Backstage, MAC Cosmetics make up artis Javier Romero took the vodoo them to the next level, creating a look that turned the models into makeshift vodoo dolls.

To get the look: A small section of cotton mesh was glued around the eyes.

Next, using fingers and brushes, MAC Eyeshadow in “Carbon” was applied from lashes to brow bone through the mesh layer.

Lips were left bare.

The finished look:

Hair by Kerastase

Katie makes some final adjustments:

Katie’s clothing is always impeccable tailored, and fall 2011 was no exception:

Leggings are a staple in Katie’s collections.

Yellow breaks up the shades of gray.

I say this every season, but no other designer I know of makes more interesting outerwear than Katie:

Another stand out this season: Katie’s use of volume, with the addition of flowing dresses.

If Katie Gallagher somehow hasn’t made it onto your radar yet, with her presence on nearly every “nyc designers to watch list”, she soon will.

See the full photo set here.

You can see my past coverage of Katie’s presentations here:
Fall 2010 and Spring 2011

All Photos ®2011 Maureen Kaveney for The Greyest Ghost.

Vena Cava: Fall/Winter 2011 Backstage

It’s only fitting that I begin each fashion week backstage at one of my favorite shows, Vena Cava! When I arrived backstage at Milk Studios for the Fall 2011 show, I was immediately drawn to Butter London Creative Director Nonie Creme creating her typically amazing nail art for the runway.

This season was no different, instead of applying polish to the models’ nails, multicolored bands were painted onto their fingers!

Watching Nonie in action is always an educational experience:

The colorways for the nail bands came straight from Vena Cava’s fall collection. Nonie said this “expanded nail art” concept was created to mimic jewelry.

Shades used include Tramp Stamp, Union Jack, Royal Navy, Scoundrel, and Flouro Orange.
To get the look: Choose a “Three Free” nail polish from Butter London (safe for use on skin). Using the polish brush, freehand bands of color around the entire width of the finger. Repeat in contrasting colors. The nail bands last approximately 24 hours.

MAC’s Christian McCulloch created a playful, glitter-laden look, intended to function as an accessory to the clothing itself.

To get the look:
Start with MAC Select Moisturecover to create a natural base. Lightly highlight cheekbones using Strobe Creme.

For eyes, apply a mixture of MAC Pro Glitter in “Reflects Purple Duo”, “Silver”, and “3D Silver” over MAC Pro Shine Mixing Medium. Set brows with MAC Clear Brow Set. On lips, use MAC Lip Pencil in “Subculture” to line edges. Finish with MAC Tinted Lip Conditioner in “Petting Pink”.

Celebrity stylist Ted Gibson created a laid back 90′s grunge inspired hair style to compliment the retro feel of the fall collection.

To get the look: Part hair in center, and apply a mixture of Ted Gibson Tame-It Shine Lotion, and Fix-It Gel to add texture. Slick hair down at the crown of the head, then twist the lower portion into coils. Pin the coils, and allow them to set. After removing coils, use a blow dryer on low heat to help separate the waves in the hair.

The finished look:

Vena Cava designers Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai.

On the runway.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2011 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

The Blonds Fall/Winter 2011

The Blonds Fall 2011 show definitely earned a place on my short list of “most memorable” shows of the season. I went in knowing to expect glitz and glamour, and even a few hijinks. By night’s end, the show, at Milk Studios, had met my expectations, and more.

After a short video intro, the show began with the appearance of two Chinese dragons hopping down the runway.

The two dragons “fought”, danced, and playfully pawed at the audience in the front row.

Celebrities like EVE, Aubrey O’Day, Miss J, and Jay Manuel, and Amanda Lepore laughed as the dragons entertained them.

And then, the models appeared:

The great thing about The Blonds is that while most of us probably will never wear anything like the amazing, theatrical costume-esque creations they send down the runway, once you see them in person, the desire is there. If I became a pop star tomorrow, would I want The Blonds to dress me? Definitely. All one needs is an incredibly special occasion to imagine themselves wearing such sparkling, imaginative clothing.

This show is fantasy dressing at it’s finest.

The Asian influenced collection referenced the theme in multiple ways, including chop sticks, fortune cookies, geisha girls, goddess statues, and of course, dragons. Every detail from the nail art, to the makeup, down to the impossibly bright, glittery shoes added to the look.

One of my favorites.

Sneak Peek: The Blonds F/W ’11

2/16/11, Milk Studios.

Sneak Peek: Backstage at Katie Gallagher F/W ’11

2/13/11, Milk Studios. By Maureen Kaveney for The Greyest Ghost

Sneak Peek: Vena Cava F/W ’11

2/10/11 At Milk Studios.

Kim Ovitz S/S 2011: Backstage and Presentation

WHO: Kim Ovitz
WHAT:Spring 2011 Collection
WHERE: 9/9/10 Milk Studios

Backstage at Kim Ovitz, I was found one of the calmest pre-show environments I encountered all week. Models sat in wooden chairs, texting away as their hair and makeup were prepped.

The makeup team, led by Luc Bouchard for MAC was inspired by the geometric shapes of Ovitz’s collection. Faces, lips and eyebrows were bare. Black triangles were painted in the corner of eyes using MAC paintsticks.

Hair was styled by Marco Santini, of Ion Studios, and his team. First, hair was flat ironed, and then brushed back and hair sprayed.

It was then woven in place using plastic thread.

The end result:

The presentation itself was held in one of Milk’s larger studios to accommodate the large geometric stage the models stood in.

INSPIRATION: The exhibition “On the Square” at Pace Gallery. Artists Louise Nevelson and Sol LeWitt. (Via Style.com)

VERDICT: A cohesive collection, daring with it’s shapes and patterns, yet still incredibly wearable.

More info here.
See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2010 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Mandy Coon S/S 2011: Backstage and Presentation

WHO: Mandy Coon
WHAT: Spring 2011 Collection
WHERE: 9/9/10, Milk Studios

INSPIRATION: Jellyfish.

Both the hair, and the clothing were inspired by Mandy’s vision of Jellyfish.

Backstage, teams from MAC and Ion Studios prepped the models:

Lead stylist Pasquale led the Ion Studios team in creating an under the sea inspired look.

Hair was sprayed with salt water to texturize. Next, hair was back combed to create body, woven into a thick braid, and then pinned over the eyes to create a jellyfish-like shape.

The finished look:

Lead artist Francelle Daly for MAC also followed the Jellyfish theme, keeping eyes bare, while creating an iridescent look for the rest of the face. Pro Prime translucent powder was used on the skin. Frozen white pigment highlighted cheek bones, and strobe cream was smoothed onto arms and legs.

 

Even the lighting fit the under sea theme.

My favorite looks:

VERDICT: Gorgeous! Another rare collection where I would wear every piece. The airy, flowing fabrics, and bright colors mixed in with basic blacks (my wardrobe staple) blew my mind. This is what a sunset would look like, reflected under the sea.

View the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2010 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

SUNO S/S 2011

WHO: SUNO
WHAT: Spring 2011 Collection
WHERE: 9/11/10 Milk Studios

For Spring, Suno’s trademark prints have been mixed in with new materials like laser cut leather, and sequin embellishments.

INSPIRATION: The designers say it best:
“Our collection this season was inspired by Georges Lepape’s colorful illustrations for the Ballet Russes, and the textural details of vintage French Biological Fish prints. We sought to make the collection feel ethereal and floating, gentle and breezy as if suspended in water or air. The silhouettes reflect a return to ladylike sophistication and shape: contained, but billowing, fraying at the edges, embracing perfect imperfections.”
–Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty of SUNO. Via Talking Makeup

The shoes, a collaboration with Loeffler Randall, were THE talk of twitter after the show:

I found myself loving the flats even more.

VERDICT: Consistently one of the best lines of prints in the fashion world. Suno’s spring collection is bright, fun, and the embodiment of happiness. With the addition of their shoe collaboration with Loeffler Randall, if Suno has somehow flown under your fashion radar before, you won’t stay unaware for long— You’re guaranteed to be seeing their name on spring’s “must have” lists everywhere.

More info at SUNO NY.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2010 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost