THOM BROWNE F/W 2016

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It should be pretty clear by now to anyone who reads this site occasionally, that Thom Browne is my favorite fashion designer currently showing in New York. More spectacle than traditional fashion show, his shows are my hands down favorite, can’t miss event of each season.

For Fall, the collection was inspired by “a walk in the park”– meaning Washington Square Park– circa one hundred years ago. Hair, usually styled more outlandishly season by season, was quite tame, allowing for the impeccable hats by Stephen Jones to shine instead. A vivid blue eyeshadow look brightened up the models’ pale faces.

According to Bumble and Bumble Lead Stylist Jimmy Paul, the hair style had a bit of a retro inspiration. “There’s a slight 1920s reference to the hair. Thom wanted the head as small as possible so we discussed ways to keep the hair close to the head. We’re essentially doing a wig wrap, the same way you’d prep the hair before putting on a wig. We’re going to make a headband with the hair and we’re using enough hairspray to make it look wet and actually stick.”

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To get the hair look: Jimmy used a traditional wig wrap technique to get the hair as tight to the head as possible. Wrapping the hair from one ear around the head, the hair was wet down with Thickening Hairspray to give the hair hold.

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To finish, Jimmy applied Bb.Gel for shine. –Instructions Via Bumble and Bumble.

Nails were painted in a pastel rainbow of colors. Lead manicurist Julie Kandalec, using ESSIE polish, created the look. The colors used (alternating on different models) were: Allure, Bikini so Teeny, Muchi Muchi, and Petal Pusher.

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The finished look:
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MAC Cosmetics’ genius makeup artist Sil Bruinsma (a frequent Thom Browne collaborator) remixed a classic 1920’s smokey eye, using bright vibrant blue eyeshadow.

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To get the look:

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Via MAC Cosmetics

The finished look:
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Once the beauty preparations were complete, I headed downstairs to see the clothes, and accessories.

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Dog bags!!!
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I also caught Stephen Jones in the midst of finalizing some hats for the show:
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Right before the show began:

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Thom Browne adjusting a look.

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One of my favorite models (and my friend!) Mick Szal opened the show as “The Woman in Red”.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins

SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2016 NYFW – DAY FOUR

Jonathan Simkhai:
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Jenny Packham:

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See the full album of F/W 2016 Sneak Peek photos here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

DELPOZO FALL/WINTER 2015

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Delpozo is unlike any other brand currently showing at New York Fashion Week. Elegant, impeccably tailored clothes, with gorgeous handmade embellishments that out-do much of what is shown on modern runways. The closest I can liken the experience to, is a less theatrical version of attending a Thom Browne show. And while both would seem more at home somewhere amongst the Paris couture shows, they stand out in a sea of “average”, and are the highlights of my NYFW show list.

Backstage, the works of painter Andrey Remnev served as inspiration for the collection, and the beauty, which translated into a look meant to mimic by “solid gold”.

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ESSIE lead manicurist Julie Kandalec created a look featuring a small, but flashy stripe of gold glitter, meant to look as if models had “just pulled their hands out of gold”. To get the look: Nails were prepped with one coat of Matte About You. Next, using a striping brush, Good As Gold was applied in a fine strip down the center of the nail. Gold glitter polish Rock at the Top was applied over the stripe, and the look was completed with a coat of Second Shine Around (only on the stripe).

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Julie at work.

The finished look:
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MAC senior artist Victor Cembellin created a “washed out” painterly makeup look, leaving skin and lips more natural, and focusing on the eyes.

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To get the look: A blend of Motif Eye Shadow, Pervette Lipstick, and Reflects Gold Pro Glitter were applied to the corners of the eye. To complete the process, Studio Waterweight Foundation was applied to model’s lips to tone down natural lip color while MAC’s Dare you lipstick was applied to cheeks to create a rosy accent.

The finished look:
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Hair focused on simplicity, with the focus this season being on the headpieces added just before the models walked the runway.

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The gorgeous, twisted fabric headpieces.

To get the look: Moroccanoil Global Creative Director Antonio Corral Calero applied Moroccanoil Treatment, and flat ironed hair straight. Next, hair was pulled into a sleek, side-parted ponytail. The look was finished by using Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray to secure the look, and delicately pulling the pony tails through the headpieces.

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The finished look:
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Much like their inspiration, the clothes themselves were works of art:

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Designer Josep Font, taking a bow.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2015 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

HONOR FALL/WINTER 2015

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Since their NYFW debut 5 years ago, HONOR has become one of the most reliable brands around for gorgeous, whimsical womenswear. For Fall 2015, designer Giovanna Randall was inspired by the forest, a theme which presented itself in both the collection, and the show’s set design. Both of which completely blew me away.

Backstage, the inspiration was classic Catherine Deneuve, with 70’s inspired hair, and girlish headbands featured on models.

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