SPRING/SUMMER 2018 SNEAK PEEKS: DAY FOUR

Sandy Liang:

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Hair: Danilo for Amika. Makeup: Koh Gen Do

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Designer Sandy Liang with her models.

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Stay tuned for a full show recap soon!

All Photos and Content ®2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

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THOM BROWNE S/S 2017

THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 022 Thom Browne’s shows never cease to blow my mind. Season after season, they just keep getting better, more theatrical, and even more innovative than ever. The gorgeous clothing is so consistently fabulous, so photogenic, that I feel privileged seeing its runway debut, and end up still thinking about it years later.

For Spring, the show took place in a colorful tiled set, which led VOGUE to liken it to a ‘Stepford Wives’ pool party’. A description I found quite accurate.  Upon entering the venue, photographers were given white Thom Browne lab coat-style jackets to wear, to further the immaculate illusion.

Backstage, the beauty look focused on big bombshell hair, “fake” tans, and multi-colored pastel lips and nails.

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Sil Bruinsma for MAC used MAC’s Pro Longwear Foundation in NC42 to create the orange, fake tan look on models faces. Models got pastel blue, or green lips, depending on skin tone. Liberal layers of mascara were applied to lashes to create a smudged look. With the makeup being finished off with a line of white acrylic paint looping around models’ necks to show a clear line between their fake tanned faces, and untanned bodies.

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Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul created a voluminous retro influenced hairdo to complement the collections old school pool party vibe. (After the hair was curled and set, large floral swim caps were placed on model’s heads until the show.)

TO GET THE LOOK: 1. Apply bumble and bumble Prep. Spray thickening hairspray and Surf spray throughout. 2. Pin into a curling iron set. 3. Once hair is set, let down and brush out curls. 4. Backcomb hair to add volume and lift at the roots. 5. Keep the look in place with Strong Finish. – Via Bumble and Bumble.

The finished look:

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One of Stephen Jones’ epic hats created for the show.

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THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 043 The male models in the show wore bird, and cat heads/costumes.

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Thom Browne’s fashion shows are very frequently more like theatre, with this years’ offering  consisting of a play in 3 acts. The arrival of the girls–all at once, the de-cloaking of their outerwear, and the swimsuit reveal at the end.

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The arrival of the models.

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The Queen and her court.

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The big reveal.

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The classic Thom Browne dog bags were updated for Spring.

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Act 3:
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THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 123 The swimsuit reveal! THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 119

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ® 2016-2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

SPRING 2017 NYFW SNEAK PEEKS: DAYS FOUR AND FIVE

THOM BROWNE:

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JEREMY SCOTT:

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THE BLONDS:

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HOOD BY AIR:

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All Photos and Content ® 2016 Rachel Scroggins / The Greyest Ghost

NYFW SNEAK PEEKS: DAYS TWO AND THREE

Tanya Taylor:

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CHROMAT:

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Katie Gallagher:

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Jonathan Simkhai:

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All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

JENNY PACKHAM F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

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Jenny Packham’s Fall 2016 collection was influenced by the sparkle and glam of the 1980’s party scene, a topic which carried over into the hair and makeup inspiration as well.

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Makeup legend Bobbi Brown, using her eponymous line, created a glittery, yet imperfect look that appeared “as if models had done their makeup on the way to the show in a taxi”.

JENNY PACKHAM FALL-WINTER 2016 013 The show’s face chart: JENNY PACKHAM FALL-WINTER 2016 004

The finished look:

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Hair was by AVEDA.

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Michelle Saunders for essie developed nail art based on a star textile from the runway collection. Two looks were created, one using a light, natural color, and another using a very pale purple.

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To get the look:
Look one: Apply First Base Coat, followed by two coats of Mademoiselle. Using a small nail art brush, paint a petite gold star on both the thumb, and one other finger using Good as Gold. Finish with Good to Go Top Coat.

Look two: Apply First Base Coat, followed by two coats of Lilacism. Using a small nail art brush, paint a petite gold star on both the thumb, and one other finger using Good as Gold. Finish with Good to Go Top Coat.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

BANANA REPUBLIC F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

BANANA REPUBLIC FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 028 Banana Republic’s Fall collection was inspired by French women, so it’s only natural the beauty look for the show would feature an exaggerated cat eye.

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STILA’s Sarah Lucero created the look, dubbed “Camille”, that featured the aforementioned cat eye, feathery lashes, and two lip colors– a vibrant red, and a lighter pink nude.

Products used to get the look include: STILA Smudge Pot in black and brown, Eyes are the Window Shadow Palette in Mind, Stay ALl Day Waterproof Brow Color, HUGE Extreme Lash Mascara, and Color Balm Lipstick in Natasha, and Olivia.

The finished look:

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Cutler Salon’s Brian Buenaventura used REDKEN products to develop two looks inspired by a Parisian girl who is “chic but doesn’t care too much”. Featuring a low ponytail, with a “wispy front”, or hair that was down and romantically curled.

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To get the looks:

#1:

1. Prep the hair with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam and blow dry section by section, giving the hair volume and texture.
2. Give the hair a left side part.
3. Take a 1 1/4″ curling iron and create an “S wave” by angling the iron vertically as you curl. Repeat throughout the hair.
4. Finish by placing hair forward on the right side, leaving loose pieces in front to give it an easy, effortless feel.
5. Complete the look with Redken Quick Dry 18 Instant Finishing Spray.

#2:

1. Prep the hair with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam and blow dry section by section, giving the hair volume and texture.
2. Give the hair a perfect middle part, leaving loose hairs in front.
3. Gather the rest of the hair into a low ponytail.
4. Take a 6 inch black elastic cord and secure onto the hair. Allow the ends of the two elastic strands to fall and blend into the ponytail. – Via Cutler/Redken

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To complete the overall beauty look, nails were painted with PritiNYC’s Dancing Queen, and finished off with a coat of Priti Loves Matte top, then 2 in 1 top coat.

BANANA REPUBLIC FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 008 The complete finished look: BANANA REPUBLIC FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 019

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

ULLA JOHNSON F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

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Amongst the huge list of Fall 2016 NYFW shows I attended, Ulla Johnson’s show definitely wins the “Best Hair” award. I absolutely fell in love with this epic, tassel-embellished braid that I found backstage. ULLA JOHNSON FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 002

To get the look:
Spray dry hair with water to dampen and apply PHYTO Phytovolume Actif Volumizing Spray throughout. Smooth out the hairline using The Beachwaver Co. Coast Pro Ceramic Styling Iron. Part the hair to the left and blast with The Beachwaver Co Pro Dry. Create a diagonal part through the back of the head, splitting the hair in two.

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French braid the hair along the diagonal, starting at the crown of the head to just behind the ear, and repeat on the opposite side.

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ULLA JOHNSON FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 004 Spray PHYTO Phytolaque Soie Finishing Spray for added texture. Gently pin the two braids using bobby pins. Finish the look with PHYTO Huile Soyeuse Lightweight Hydrating Oil. Embellish with a tassel (as seen on the runway). -Via Beauty.com

Models’ skin was pampered with a dose of Dr. Hauschka products, before makeup application began.

To start: Cleanse the skin with Dr. Hauschka Smoothing Cleansing Milk, followed by Dr. Hauschka Facial Toner.  Apply Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream all over the face then gently dab Dr. Hauschka Daily Hydrating Eye Cream on the outer corner of the eyes for added hydration.

The sun-kissed, fresh faced look was assembled as follows: Apply Tarte Amazonian Clay BB Tinted Moisturizer evenly on the entire face. Conceal blemishes with Tarte Amazonian Clay Waterproof Concealer where needed throughout the face. Layer Tarte Amazonian Clay Tartlette Matte Palette’s Force of Nature, with Tarte Showstopper Clay Palette’s Park Ave Princess, then lightly dust over the lids to create a sheer, tea-stain-like finish.

Prep the lips with Dr. Hauschka Lip Balm then layer Tarte Amazonian Butter Lipstick in Park Ave Princess with Tarte Lipsurgence Power Pigment in Exposed. Create a matte, stained finish by dusting Tarte Amazonian Clay Tartlette Palette’s Force of Nature, and Tarte Rainforest After Dark Palette’s Bare to Explore over the lips. Give the look a creamy glow by pairing Dr. Hauschka Eye Balm with Tarte Rainforest After Dark Colored Clay Eye & Cheek Palette’s Champagne Highlighter, and apply to the inner corners of the eyes, as well as the cheeks. Finish the look with Tarte Amazonian Clay Smooth Operator Finishing Powder. – Via Beauty.com

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To complete the look, a soft mauve manicure finished off the nails. One coat of Londontown Lakur in Mauve Over was applied to nails, and set with Londontown Kur Protective Matte Top Coat.

ULLA JOHNSON FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 019 The finished look:

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

SUNO F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

SUNO FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 015 Beauty wise, SUNO is a brand known for having gorgeous, yet understated backstage beauty looks for its shows. Natural, but with a touch of quirky. For Fall, Odile Gilbert for Kérastase created a “graphic yet chic” ponytail, featuring velvet satin ribbon, to texturize models’ hair.

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To get the look:

1. Prep and wash hair with Nutritive Bain Satin 1 and Nutritive Lait Vital.
2. On damp hair, apply the NEW! L’Incroyable Blowdry Heat Lotion all over the hair and Crème de la Crème to just the ends.
3. Next, part the hair down the middle and roughly blow-dry. After dry, apply Powder Bluff at the roots (for greasy roots) or V.I.P (for extra volume).
4. Then, pull hair back into a low ponytail and secure with an elastic. Gently loosen hair around the nape of the neck to give a lived in, natural look.
5. Spray hair all over with Laque Dentelle.
6. Next, take ribbon and wrap the ponytail, crisscrossing the ribbon down the hair. Tie the ribbon once 3/4 of the way down the ponytail.
7. Finish the style by spraying Laque Dentelle all over for a flexible, versatile hold.

-Via Kérastase

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NARS Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer created a clean, natural look that made the models appear “flushed and wind burned”, inspired by “aristocratic nomads”.

Products used to get the look include: On the face: NARSSkin Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer, Stick Concealer, Soft Velvet Loose Powder. On Cheeks: Leslie Audacious Lipstick On Brows: Oural Brow Gel On Lips: Unspeakable Velvet Lip Glide. Also dabbed on cheekbones and the forehead to create the sun-kissed look.

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To complete the look, Danielle Candido for Morgan Taylor created a dark, strong neutral nail.

To get the look: 2 coats of Latte Please were painted onto the model’s natural nails. The nail was then topped off with Need for Speed high shine top coat.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

JEREMY SCOTT F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

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Backstage at Jeremy Scott — one of the most fun– and happy shows of fashion week, the mood was pure excitement. With as much careful consideration given to the beauty looks as the clothes, the big hair and bright makeup I found was definitely not disappointing. Eugene Souleiman, Global Creative Director Wella Professionals, created an over the top, “slightly Barbarella” inspired big hair look.

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To get the look: “Eugene started by prepping the hair using EIMI Sugar Lift with EIMI Perfect Setting on the ends. Over-applying the product gave the hair a chemically processed texture, making it easier to style and giving it the fifties look that is synonymous with classic pin-up style. On creating the look, Eugene shares: ‘We blew the hair out at the roots with EIMI Sugar Lift to give us a great base for the backcombing. It makes the hair feel a little bit more porous and processed which is wonderful for keeping volume.'”

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“Once the hair was dried using a large round brush, it was left to set in wide rollers before being brushed out.”

JEREMY SCOTT FALL-WINTER 2016 024 “Eugene applied EIMI Stay Essential hairspray to hold the style and teased the hair to make it even bigger. At the end of the day, perfect pin-up hair was the finishing touch that brought together the Barbie-esque, decades-inspired ‘Cowboys and Poodles’ runway look.” -Instructions via WELLA Professionals

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The finished look:

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MAC Cosmetic’s Key Makeup Artist, Kabuki (one of my favorite makeup geniuses of NYFW!) created a “Cowgirls in Space” pin up inspired look to compliment the funky collection. “I wanted the look to feel fresh, and very Jeremy Scott”. Bright pink lips were the focal point of the look, with a swipe of custom mixed electric blue eyeliner to enhance the eye.

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The custom mixed blue eyeliner.

To get the look:
Jeremy Scott - makeup instructions VIA MAC

Face Chart -Via MAC Cosmetics

The finished look:

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Last but not least, another one of my favorite backstage pro’s: Simcha Whitehill, AKA Miss Pop Nails, envisioned a stunning bright pastel nail look for each model. JEREMY SCOTT FALL-WINTER 2016 012

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“To complement Jeremy Scott’s Spring 2016 collection, Miss Pop used a line up of our five best bright lacquer shades. She painted elongated oval nail tips in each of the five shades, then added a cartoon-like flare on the pinkies in Alpine Snow to give the nails a shiny plastic look.” – Via OPI

Colors used include: Shorts Story, A Good Mandarin is Hard to Find, The Sun Never Sets, I just can’t Cope-Acabana, and To Infinity and Blue-yond. “One coat of one of each of those shades and then one coat of Kyoto pearl to get this muted metallic bright.” – Via Miss Pop

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The finished look:
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The runway show itself was just as fun:

JEREMY SCOTT FALL-WINTER 2016 003 It featured many retro, cartoon inspired outfits! JEREMY SCOTT FALL-WINTER 2016 001

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Karlie Kloss and Designer Jeremy Scott after the finale.

See the Full Photo Set Here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.