F/W 2017 SNEAK PEEKS: DAY THREE – TANYA TAYLOR, JEREMY SCOTT, AND CHROMAT

TANYA TAYLOR:

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JEREMY SCOTT:

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CHROMAT:

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All Photos and Content ®2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

See all the NYFW F/W 2017 Sneak Peeks here.

THOM BROWNE S/S 2017

THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 022 Thom Browne’s shows never cease to blow my mind. Season after season, they just keep getting better, more theatrical, and even more innovative than ever. The gorgeous clothing is so consistently fabulous, so photogenic, that I feel privileged seeing its runway debut, and end up still thinking about it years later.

For Spring, the show took place in a colorful tiled set, which led VOGUE to liken it to a ‘Stepford Wives’ pool party’. A description I found quite accurate.  Upon entering the venue, photographers were given white Thom Browne lab coat-style jackets to wear, to further the immaculate illusion.

Backstage, the beauty look focused on big bombshell hair, “fake” tans, and multi-colored pastel lips and nails.

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Sil Bruinsma for MAC used MAC’s Pro Longwear Foundation in NC42 to create the orange, fake tan look on models faces. Models got pastel blue, or green lips, depending on skin tone. Liberal layers of mascara were applied to lashes to create a smudged look. With the makeup being finished off with a line of white acrylic paint looping around models’ necks to show a clear line between their fake tanned faces, and untanned bodies.

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Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul created a voluminous retro influenced hairdo to complement the collections old school pool party vibe. (After the hair was curled and set, large floral swim caps were placed on model’s heads until the show.)

TO GET THE LOOK: 1. Apply bumble and bumble Prep. Spray thickening hairspray and Surf spray throughout. 2. Pin into a curling iron set. 3. Once hair is set, let down and brush out curls. 4. Backcomb hair to add volume and lift at the roots. 5. Keep the look in place with Strong Finish. – Via Bumble and Bumble.

The finished look:

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One of Stephen Jones’ epic hats created for the show.

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Thom Browne’s fashion shows are very frequently more like theatre, with this years’ offering  consisting of a play in 3 acts. The arrival of the girls–all at once, the de-cloaking of their outerwear, and the swimsuit reveal at the end.

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The arrival of the models.

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The Queen and her court.

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The big reveal.

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The classic Thom Browne dog bags were updated for Spring.

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Act 3:
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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ® 2016-2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

TANYA TAYLOR S/S 2017

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Tanya Taylor’s collections are always a riot of color. I’ve been following her line since almost the beginning of her career. And love that I can always look forward to seeing fantastic patterns, and bright colors in her designs each season. TANYA TAYLOR SPRING-SUMMER 2017 016

The Spring collection’s “island” inspiration was very apparent to the viewer. These were happy, vacation ready clothes, that just viewing made you want to jet off to a far off locale.

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As strong as the clothing collection is, Tanya Taylor also consistently features fun, innovative beauty looks each season. While the hair and makeup was more relaxed, and vaction-y, the standout beauty feature of Spring was the funky rainbow wave nail art.

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Morgan Taylor Lead Nail Artist Gina Edwards painted each nail with Morgan Taylor New School Nude as a base coat. Next, each tip with hand-painted with half-moon designs, using a selection of multiple Morgan Taylor polishes. Featured colors that were used include Orange You Glad, West Coast Cool, Ahead of the Game, Tropical Punch, Mint Chocolate Chip, Tokyo A Go Go, Sweet Escape, and Deja Blue.

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Allen Wood for Bumble and Bumble led the hair team, who created the island friendly hair style, inspired by Tanya’s trips to Cuba and Capri. To get the look: “Mist Surf Spray onto small sections of hair and twist hair around the fingers, alternating the direction of the twist so hair doesn’t become uniform. Blow dry and scrunch hair to create an organic texture. Create a natural center part and tuck hair behind the ears. Once twists have cooled, break up hair by raking with fingers. Finish with Dryspun Finish throughout roots to add volume.” –Instructions via Bumble and Bumble.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016-2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

SPRING 2017 NYFW SNEAK PEEKS: DAYS FOUR AND FIVE

THOM BROWNE:

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JEREMY SCOTT:

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THE BLONDS:

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HOOD BY AIR:

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All Photos and Content ® 2016 Rachel Scroggins / The Greyest Ghost

SELF PORTRAIT F/W 2016

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Self Portrait is one of the most exciting recent additions to the New York Fashion Week lineup. I’ve been a fan of the brand for a while now, after discovering them on ASOS.com, and I was thrilled to see they’d decided to start showing the new collections in NYC last year. Known for innovative mixes of lace with unconventional fabrics on dresses, the Fall collection included the addition of separates, turtlenecks, and bomber jackets. Backstage, Bumble and Bumble stylist Jimmy Paul developed a look that complimented the fresh faced makeup, with heavy, fringe-y clip in bangs– used to create “uniformity” amongst the models.

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To get the look:  Apply Bb.Gel into hands and pull hair into a high ponytail and secure with elastic, creating a loop in the hair and allowing the rest of the ponytail to fall. For added shine, apply more Bb.Gel. Attach a clip-in bang and dampen with Prep. Each bang was razor cut to personalize the look to each model. – Via Bumble and Bumble

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The clip-in bangs.

The finished look:
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Gucci Westman for Tata Harper beautified models’ skin, creating a romantic, luminous, fresh faced look.

To get the look: Prep skin with Tata Harper Beautifying Face Oil, then use Reparative Moisturizer to achieve a radiant glow. Apply Restorative Eye Cream around the eyes to “refresh tired looking eyes”. Contour under cheekbones with a light bronzer, use nude lip gloss (with matching liner) to enhance lips, and apply matte brown eyeshadow to the top and bottom of eyes.

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To finish the process, apply Tata Harper Revitalizing Body Oil, and Redefining Body Balm all over the body. – Via Tata Harper.

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Lace and embroidery details of the impeccable dresses:
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The presentation:

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

THOM BROWNE F/W 2016

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It should be pretty clear by now to anyone who reads this site occasionally, that Thom Browne is my favorite fashion designer currently showing in New York. More spectacle than traditional fashion show, his shows are my hands down favorite, can’t miss event of each season.

For Fall, the collection was inspired by “a walk in the park”– meaning Washington Square Park– circa one hundred years ago. Hair, usually styled more outlandishly season by season, was quite tame, allowing for the impeccable hats by Stephen Jones to shine instead. A vivid blue eyeshadow look brightened up the models’ pale faces.

According to Bumble and Bumble Lead Stylist Jimmy Paul, the hair style had a bit of a retro inspiration. “There’s a slight 1920s reference to the hair. Thom wanted the head as small as possible so we discussed ways to keep the hair close to the head. We’re essentially doing a wig wrap, the same way you’d prep the hair before putting on a wig. We’re going to make a headband with the hair and we’re using enough hairspray to make it look wet and actually stick.”

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To get the hair look: Jimmy used a traditional wig wrap technique to get the hair as tight to the head as possible. Wrapping the hair from one ear around the head, the hair was wet down with Thickening Hairspray to give the hair hold.

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To finish, Jimmy applied Bb.Gel for shine. –Instructions Via Bumble and Bumble.

Nails were painted in a pastel rainbow of colors. Lead manicurist Julie Kandalec, using ESSIE polish, created the look. The colors used (alternating on different models) were: Allure, Bikini so Teeny, Muchi Muchi, and Petal Pusher.

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The finished look:
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MAC Cosmetics’ genius makeup artist Sil Bruinsma (a frequent Thom Browne collaborator) remixed a classic 1920’s smokey eye, using bright vibrant blue eyeshadow.

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To get the look:

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Via MAC Cosmetics

The finished look:
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Once the beauty preparations were complete, I headed downstairs to see the clothes, and accessories.

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Dog bags!!!
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I also caught Stephen Jones in the midst of finalizing some hats for the show:
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Right before the show began:

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Thom Browne adjusting a look.

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One of my favorite models (and my friend!) Mick Szal opened the show as “The Woman in Red”.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins

SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2016 NYFW – DAY FIVE

Jeremy Scott:

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Anna K:
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Karen Walker:
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Thom Browne:
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See the full album of Fall/Winter 2016 Sneak Peeks here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

KAREN WALKER S/S 2016

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Karen Walker impresses me season after season with her fun, quirky take on clothes that are– gasp!– actually wearable. While I love avant garde fashion, or flowing gorgeous ballgowns as much as the next girl, it’s nice to see impeccably designed clothing that is suitable for everyday wear, and affordable.

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The fact that designs some of the best sunglasses around also helps.

And like many of my other favorite designers, Karen has fun with her collections’ themes and inspiration. For Spring, that inspiration was “life in Zvedzny Gorodok, AKA Star City” in the Soviet Union. Once a secret city where Soviet astronauts lived, little details such as spate suite-esque zippers, utilitarian garments, and star shaped earrings helped visualize that inspiration.

The Sephora PRO team translated the astronaut/space theme into a glam look, featuring an enchanting blue eye.

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Thom Brown Spring/Summer 2016

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It should be pretty apparent to readers of this site, by now, that Thom Browne is one of my favorite designers, and my hands down must see show during New York Fashion Week.

More sartorial spectacle and feast for the senses than traditional fashion show, Browne’s bi-annual women’s collection is presented in a unique, innovative way each season. As mentioned in the wonderful VOGUE.com review of the SS16 collection, it’s a tradition for the show’s theme to be tantamount to the theme of the clothing. There is no guess work for critics trying to decipher the current season’s inspiration.

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For SS16, this was Japan. Specifically Japanese School Girls.

Beauty wise, this translated into geisha inspired makeup, and traditional school girl braids– updated in a most untraditional way– with the braids hanging “upside down”!

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