SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2016 NYFW – DAY FIVE

Jeremy Scott:

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Anna K:
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Karen Walker:
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Thom Browne:
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See the full album of Fall/Winter 2016 Sneak Peeks here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

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Thom Brown Spring/Summer 2016

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It should be pretty apparent to readers of this site, by now, that Thom Browne is one of my favorite designers, and my hands down must see show during New York Fashion Week.

More sartorial spectacle and feast for the senses than traditional fashion show, Browne’s bi-annual women’s collection is presented in a unique, innovative way each season. As mentioned in the wonderful VOGUE.com review of the SS16 collection, it’s a tradition for the show’s theme to be tantamount to the theme of the clothing. There is no guess work for critics trying to decipher the current season’s inspiration.

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For SS16, this was Japan. Specifically Japanese School Girls.

Beauty wise, this translated into geisha inspired makeup, and traditional school girl braids– updated in a most untraditional way– with the braids hanging “upside down”!

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ROSIE ASSOULIN F/W 2014

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I went in to the Rosie Assoulin show not knowing much about the designer other than she was developing a strong reputation for evening wear, and that she’d earned a place on many “designers to watch” lists over the past year. What I found when I arrived completely blew me away.

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Most models were in the midst of getting the finishing touches put on their hair and makeup looks for the show. But a few sneak peeks of the clothing happened here and there, showing glimpses of what was to come.

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MAC Executive Director of Makeup Artistry Lyne Desnoyers at work.

Together with Assoilin, who wanted the makeup to focus on “19th century rouge”, Desnoyers created a down to earth look that featured an almost bare face with berry stained lips, and a bright pop of blush high on the cheekbones. Peach, Rust, and Red tones were used on cheeks, depending on the model’s skin tone.

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Breakdown of the look/products used, via the MAC face chart

The finished look:

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Allen Wood for Bumble and Bumble created an updated ponytail meant to mimic the effortless look of hair tucked into a woman’s coat.

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To get the look, hair was sprayed with Thickening Spray, Surf Spray, and Bumble and Bumble Prep, then dried. A “quick roll” at the nape of the neck twisted the ponytail, which was then secured with pins.

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Finished hair and makeup:

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One of the things that stood out the most to me, upon viewing this collection, was the wonderful use of bright, intense colors as accent points that added a pop to each gown.

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Last but not least, my favorite dress. Assembled from hundreds of pieces of silk and velvet.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

THOM BROWNE S/S 2014

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Thom Browne’s shows fall into that rare category of “what on Earth could I possibly say to do this justice” style events. Maybe in the future when memories can be downloaded, and relived by others via virtual reality, could someone who didn’t see it firsthand understand what it’s like to experience one of his shows. Which are not really just shows– but a spectacle.

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I arrived early enough to catch the makeup test. Which left a lot of the waiting press…surprised after catching their first glimpse.

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At this point, most of us were left wondering “what is going to happen during this show?!” But more on that later. 😉

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I also caught many of the finishing touches being put onto the clothing in the collection. Which had so much impeccable detail (as always!) that I had to remind myself I wasn’t in Paris, backstage at a couture show.

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Back to the “unusual” makeup for the show:

To break it down in the most simple way, one could say there were two looks for the show. The “nurses” and the “patients”. That’s right, the show’s main point of inspiration was an insane asylum.

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A nurse gets her makeup painted on.

The distinguishing looks breakdown as follows:
Nurses: “normal” face makeup, red lips, “normal” hair, topped off with a white snood.
Patients: “crazy” smeared makeup, wild bird’s nest hair, topped with a red snood.

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A patient.

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The full makeup instructions, straight from the source– MAC’s Sil Bruinsma:
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The key was the imperfect smudging of all the patients’ looks, to truly capture that crazed feeling. Nurses= same makeup, not smudged.

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Hair, by Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul continued with the nurse and patient theme, showcasing “normal and crazy” once again.

Nurses hair was teased, but otherwise kept mostly natural in appearance, then coated with a dusting of Bumble and Bumble white hair powder. Thom Browne S-S 2014-40

For the patients’ hair, the following steps were used:
Hair was doused with Surf Spray, then dried, and teased BIG. To add volume to the looks of models with finer hair, donuts were placed on top of the head, then covered with more teased hair. The look was then finished off with white Hair Powder.

The finished look:
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After hair and makeup was completed, I got to investigate many pieces of the collection up close.

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Supposedly these cats were “strangled by the pearls” of their insane mistress.

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A sketch artist’s work backstage.

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Getting into character.

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Thom at work.

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Note the anchors on the collar– the show also had a slight nautical theme.

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The show itself was definitely a unique experience. Starting about 40 minutes late, after nearly an hour of the pre-show jack-in-the-box-esque creepy musical soundtrack, many of those in the audience felt as if they too were being slowly driven insane. But it was sooo worth it.

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It was long, and it was creepy, and weird. But unlike anything else I’d ever seen at NYFW. Or really anywhere, ever. I can only describe it as Sleep No More meets One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest meets Queen Elizabeth’s court. Happening in slow motion, under flickering light bulbs, complimented by another bizarre soundtrack of meowing cats and toy instruments.

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The models all perfected the “I am dosed out of my mind on psychiatric drugs, now where the hell am I?” look. Meanwhile the nurses were passing out candy “pills” to show-goers.

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Designer Thom Browne.

In the end: it was the most original, and slightly disturbing show I saw all week. And I loved it!

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2013-2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Band of Outsiders S/S 2011: Backstage and Presentation

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WHO: Band of Outsiders
WHAT: Spring 2011 Collections
WHERE: 9/11/10 at Center 548

Backstage, Shiseido’s Dick Page led the team of makeup artists to create two distinct looks for both the Boy, and Girl by Band of Outsiders models.

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For the “Boy” look, most of the face was bear with the exception of Natural Finish Cream Concealer covering up any blemishes. The focus, was on the eyes. Eyes were lined with Automatic Fine Eyeliner in Black on the lower lash line, and in the lid’s crease.
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Clear lip balm, Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment, was applied over the lid, and smeared with a thin brush. Finally, lashes were coated with Perfect Mascara Defining Volume in Black.
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The end result:
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For the “Girl” look, once again skin was touched up using only Natural Finish Cream Concealer. Shimmering Rouge Lipstick in Golden Dragon was applied to cheeks, temples, and the bridge of the nose with a damp sponge. Benefiance Full Correction Lip Treatment was used on eyelids. The look was finished by dabbing Shimmering Rouge Lipstick in Lounge onto the lips using the makeup artist’s fingertips.

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The finished look.

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Hair was styled by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble.
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Thickening Spray was used to prep hair, which was then pulled back into a pony tail, and woven into a thick braid. The braid was blow dried, then the pony was released and finger combed, to give hair a wavy look. Alternate looks kept the pony tail, but and left the braid undone.

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The calm before the storm.

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Doing some pre-show reading.

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My favorite dress in the Girl collection.

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Pre-show fun.

Once preparations were complete, the presentation began downstairs with Boy by Band of Outsiders. Upon arriving, guests were greeted by models standing on a set of bleachers, modeling the Boy looks.

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Next, Girl by Band of Outsiders “day” looks were presented in a steamy spa-like atmosphere.

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The more formal evening Girl looks were displayed at a “beach”:
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They intersected with the first of the men’s looks:
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The dormitory:
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The final men’s looks:
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THE VERDICT:
Band of Outsiders Spring 2011 collection truly offers something for everyone. Both men’s classic staples, and more rustic options. From the women’s ethereal earth tone gowns, to menswear inspired women’s wear, nearly every stylistic preference is represented in this collection. I have a feeling we’ll be seeing the wooden wrap wedges and lightweight dresses of the Girl collection in particular all over NYC come spring.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2010 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.