THOM BROWNE S/S 2017

THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 022 Thom Browne’s shows never cease to blow my mind. Season after season, they just keep getting better, more theatrical, and even more innovative than ever. The gorgeous clothing is so consistently fabulous, so photogenic, that I feel privileged seeing its runway debut, and end up still thinking about it years later.

For Spring, the show took place in a colorful tiled set, which led VOGUE to liken it to a ‘Stepford Wives’ pool party’. A description I found quite accurate.  Upon entering the venue, photographers were given white Thom Browne lab coat-style jackets to wear, to further the immaculate illusion.

Backstage, the beauty look focused on big bombshell hair, “fake” tans, and multi-colored pastel lips and nails.

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Sil Bruinsma for MAC used MAC’s Pro Longwear Foundation in NC42 to create the orange, fake tan look on models faces. Models got pastel blue, or green lips, depending on skin tone. Liberal layers of mascara were applied to lashes to create a smudged look. With the makeup being finished off with a line of white acrylic paint looping around models’ necks to show a clear line between their fake tanned faces, and untanned bodies.

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Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul created a voluminous retro influenced hairdo to complement the collections old school pool party vibe. (After the hair was curled and set, large floral swim caps were placed on model’s heads until the show.)

TO GET THE LOOK: 1. Apply bumble and bumble Prep. Spray thickening hairspray and Surf spray throughout. 2. Pin into a curling iron set. 3. Once hair is set, let down and brush out curls. 4. Backcomb hair to add volume and lift at the roots. 5. Keep the look in place with Strong Finish. – Via Bumble and Bumble.

The finished look:

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One of Stephen Jones’ epic hats created for the show.

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Thom Browne’s fashion shows are very frequently more like theatre, with this years’ offering  consisting of a play in 3 acts. The arrival of the girls–all at once, the de-cloaking of their outerwear, and the swimsuit reveal at the end.

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The arrival of the models.

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The Queen and her court.

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The big reveal.

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The classic Thom Browne dog bags were updated for Spring.

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Act 3:
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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ® 2016-2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

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THOM BROWNE F/W 2016

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It should be pretty clear by now to anyone who reads this site occasionally, that Thom Browne is my favorite fashion designer currently showing in New York. More spectacle than traditional fashion show, his shows are my hands down favorite, can’t miss event of each season.

For Fall, the collection was inspired by “a walk in the park”– meaning Washington Square Park– circa one hundred years ago. Hair, usually styled more outlandishly season by season, was quite tame, allowing for the impeccable hats by Stephen Jones to shine instead. A vivid blue eyeshadow look brightened up the models’ pale faces.

According to Bumble and Bumble Lead Stylist Jimmy Paul, the hair style had a bit of a retro inspiration. “There’s a slight 1920s reference to the hair. Thom wanted the head as small as possible so we discussed ways to keep the hair close to the head. We’re essentially doing a wig wrap, the same way you’d prep the hair before putting on a wig. We’re going to make a headband with the hair and we’re using enough hairspray to make it look wet and actually stick.”

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To get the hair look: Jimmy used a traditional wig wrap technique to get the hair as tight to the head as possible. Wrapping the hair from one ear around the head, the hair was wet down with Thickening Hairspray to give the hair hold.

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To finish, Jimmy applied Bb.Gel for shine. –Instructions Via Bumble and Bumble.

Nails were painted in a pastel rainbow of colors. Lead manicurist Julie Kandalec, using ESSIE polish, created the look. The colors used (alternating on different models) were: Allure, Bikini so Teeny, Muchi Muchi, and Petal Pusher.

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The finished look:
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MAC Cosmetics’ genius makeup artist Sil Bruinsma (a frequent Thom Browne collaborator) remixed a classic 1920’s smokey eye, using bright vibrant blue eyeshadow.

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To get the look:

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Via MAC Cosmetics

The finished look:
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Once the beauty preparations were complete, I headed downstairs to see the clothes, and accessories.

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Dog bags!!!
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I also caught Stephen Jones in the midst of finalizing some hats for the show:
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Right before the show began:

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Thom Browne adjusting a look.

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One of my favorite models (and my friend!) Mick Szal opened the show as “The Woman in Red”.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins

SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2016 NYFW – DAY FIVE

Jeremy Scott:

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Anna K:
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Karen Walker:
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Thom Browne:
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See the full album of Fall/Winter 2016 Sneak Peeks here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

DELPOZO S/S 2016

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DELPOZO is a brand that almost seems as if it would be more suitable to show at Paris fashion week. Frequently referred to as “demi-couture”, the brand’s epic, handmade collections are the highlight of my every NYFW, and the perfect way to end the frenzy of each season.

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Backstage, the look was all about a fresh face topped off with glitter eyes, and ultra-long, sleek hair.

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MAC lead makeup artist Monica Marmo described the look as having “skin super fresh like a flower, with metallic eyes for a little controversy.” This is “a woman from the future who is modern, but soft and beautiful.”

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Moroccanoil Creative Director Antonio Corral Calero created a very long, easy hairdo, with a twist– literally! Hair featured a small, twisted ponytail in the center.

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To get the look:

Apply 22-24″ extensions, for hair that is not naturally long.
Starting with damp hair, apply Moroccanoil Treatment and Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream to create the foundation of the style. Blow dry sleek and smooth.

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Once thoroughly dry, create a deep left side part. Gather 3″ sections at each side of the part and mist with hairspray. Comb sections back behind the ears and secure underneath the bulk of the hair at the nape of the neck with an elastic. This small ponytail should be hidden.
Flat iron all of the loose hair, gently rolling the iron from the mid-shaft to ends to create a natural bend.
Brush all of the loose hair smooth into a very low and loose ponytail – about mid-back – and secure with an elastic.
Use your finger to divide the ponytail in half above the elastic (creating a hole). Flip the ponytail up and through the hole to create the twisted style.
Set the style with a gentle mist of hairspray. — via Moroccanoil.

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Finally, Julie Kandalec for ESSIE created an adorable, subtle glitter nail that perfectly complimented the eye makeup, using Sparkle On Top.

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Two things I love the most about Delpozo collections: they always use interesting fabrics and materials, and play with volume. I can’t think of many other modern designers who have so much fun creating unique shapes and garments out of fabric.

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Spring also marked the introduction of a handbag collection:
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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2015-2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

DELPOZO FALL/WINTER 2015

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Delpozo is unlike any other brand currently showing at New York Fashion Week. Elegant, impeccably tailored clothes, with gorgeous handmade embellishments that out-do much of what is shown on modern runways. The closest I can liken the experience to, is a less theatrical version of attending a Thom Browne show. And while both would seem more at home somewhere amongst the Paris couture shows, they stand out in a sea of “average”, and are the highlights of my NYFW show list.

Backstage, the works of painter Andrey Remnev served as inspiration for the collection, and the beauty, which translated into a look meant to mimic by “solid gold”.

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ESSIE lead manicurist Julie Kandalec created a look featuring a small, but flashy stripe of gold glitter, meant to look as if models had “just pulled their hands out of gold”. To get the look: Nails were prepped with one coat of Matte About You. Next, using a striping brush, Good As Gold was applied in a fine strip down the center of the nail. Gold glitter polish Rock at the Top was applied over the stripe, and the look was completed with a coat of Second Shine Around (only on the stripe).

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Julie at work.

The finished look:
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MAC senior artist Victor Cembellin created a “washed out” painterly makeup look, leaving skin and lips more natural, and focusing on the eyes.

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To get the look: A blend of Motif Eye Shadow, Pervette Lipstick, and Reflects Gold Pro Glitter were applied to the corners of the eye. To complete the process, Studio Waterweight Foundation was applied to model’s lips to tone down natural lip color while MAC’s Dare you lipstick was applied to cheeks to create a rosy accent.

The finished look:
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Hair focused on simplicity, with the focus this season being on the headpieces added just before the models walked the runway.

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The gorgeous, twisted fabric headpieces.

To get the look: Moroccanoil Global Creative Director Antonio Corral Calero applied Moroccanoil Treatment, and flat ironed hair straight. Next, hair was pulled into a sleek, side-parted ponytail. The look was finished by using Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray to secure the look, and delicately pulling the pony tails through the headpieces.

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The finished look:
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Much like their inspiration, the clothes themselves were works of art:

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Designer Josep Font, taking a bow.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2015 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

THOM BROWNE F/W 2013

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Over the past eight seasons, I’ve photographed many exciting, beautiful, and inspiring fashion shows– over 200 of them. Thom Browne’s Fall 2013 show is my favorite of them all. Every detail, from the backstage beauty to spooky, wintery runway show was perfect, making the viewer feel as if they were transported to a couture show in Paris, rather than a loft space in New York’s Chelsea.

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Mac Cosmetics’ Sil Bruinsma created a dazzling look inspired by Marie Antoinette, and The Queen of Hearts, focusing on whited out faces and bright red cheeks and lips.


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Givenchy Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2009

I am in love with Givenchy’s Fall ’09 Couture collection. I’ve always admired middle eastern and Persian traditional fashion–the jewelry, the beading, the gold. This season Riccardo Tisci showed more of his usual awe inspiring gowns, with an added focus on accessories such as saris, veils, chain maile, head pieces, and full arms of bangle bracelets.

Three of my favorite looks:

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Reminiscent of King Xerxes, from the movie 300:
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My new dream wedding dress:
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A little bit Persian, a little bit Victorian:
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See more at Style.com

I can’t find any close up shots floating around the internet. But if you have a chance, check out the lace up heels and open toed boots. Don’t forget the rings and bracelets– some of which look like they could double as weapons!

To get a similar look for less, try some of the Persian and Indian inspired jewelry here:
Earthly Adornments
Bead and Tribal Jewelry Store