SELF PORTRAIT F/W 2016

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Self Portrait is one of the most exciting recent additions to the New York Fashion Week lineup. I’ve been a fan of the brand for a while now, after discovering them on ASOS.com, and I was thrilled to see they’d decided to start showing the new collections in NYC last year. Known for innovative mixes of lace with unconventional fabrics on dresses, the Fall collection included the addition of separates, turtlenecks, and bomber jackets. Backstage, Bumble and Bumble stylist Jimmy Paul developed a look that complimented the fresh faced makeup, with heavy, fringe-y clip in bangs– used to create “uniformity” amongst the models.

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To get the look:  Apply Bb.Gel into hands and pull hair into a high ponytail and secure with elastic, creating a loop in the hair and allowing the rest of the ponytail to fall. For added shine, apply more Bb.Gel. Attach a clip-in bang and dampen with Prep. Each bang was razor cut to personalize the look to each model. – Via Bumble and Bumble

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The clip-in bangs.

The finished look:
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Gucci Westman for Tata Harper beautified models’ skin, creating a romantic, luminous, fresh faced look.

To get the look: Prep skin with Tata Harper Beautifying Face Oil, then use Reparative Moisturizer to achieve a radiant glow. Apply Restorative Eye Cream around the eyes to “refresh tired looking eyes”. Contour under cheekbones with a light bronzer, use nude lip gloss (with matching liner) to enhance lips, and apply matte brown eyeshadow to the top and bottom of eyes.

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To finish the process, apply Tata Harper Revitalizing Body Oil, and Redefining Body Balm all over the body. – Via Tata Harper.

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Lace and embroidery details of the impeccable dresses:
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SELF PORTRAIT FALL-WINTER 2016 019 Designer Han Chong adjusting a model during the lookbook shoot.

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The presentation:

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

Adam Selman F/W 2014

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Before every fashion week, I scour the internet searching for new designers to feature on this blog. Pouring through “designers to watch” lists, checking for interesting looking brands on instagram, and googling every unknown name on the fashion calendar is regular procedure for me.

One designer that caught my eye –based on the bright disco inspired eye makeup his models wore for the SS14 show– was Adam Selman. The clothes? Just as eye catching. And then I discovered he was Rihanna’s costume designer and friend. Yes, that Rihanna. Soon it all made sense.

Backstage, bright colors and playful patterns of the FW14 collection once again commanded my attention. I always personally prefer bright, fun, or edgy makeup on models (neutral beauty at a fashion show is boring!), and this show did not disappoint.

One of the first things I noticed: The nail art. Or rather, finger art:

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An updated take on a french manicure, Nailing Hollywood nail artist Madeline Poole painted half of each nail with Chanel Nail Colour Polish in Black Satin. The henna inspired finger art was drawn on using Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner in Black.

Hair stylist Duffy, using ORIBE products, created a loose, Snoop Dogg inspired braid to compliment the 1990’s slant of the collection.

 

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Katie Gallagher S/S 2012

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Katie Gallagher creates collections that completely embody a theme with more skill than any other young designer I have ever encountered. With a talent, vision, and work ethic that defies her years, Katie’s collections are a consistent favorite, season after season.

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For Spring, Katie was inspired by blood. “Not the blood of nightmares of brutality, but the blood that’s sanguine, living and the brightest red. Always moving, coursing, and restless inside us. All the while staying hidden to the outside world.”

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Every last detail of her show is executed to perfection. Hair and makeup looks are just inspired as Katie’s designs, this season drawing inspiration from the bloodstream (makeup) and the heart (hair). Even the set design (vials of blood) and hand-picked show music complements the designs.

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Nails by Color Club

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Makeup artist Javier Romero “imagined dipping the model’s face inside a blood vessel”, and created his own mascara to capture the precise look.

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Romero first applied MAC Mineralize Charged Water Moisturizer, followed by Matchmaster SPF15 Foundation to even out skin. MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural Foundation was dusted over the T-zone. For eyes, MAC Chromographic Pencil in Pro Basic Red was used around the upper lash line. MAC Pro Lash, MAC Mixing Medium, and Mac Pigment in Pro Basic Red were mixed together to create red mascara. Next, MAC 30 Lash was applied to upper lashes, and eyelids were glossed with MAC Pro Gloss Texture.

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For lips, Romero started with MAC Chromographic Pencil in Pro Basic Red, then blended MAC Pro Longwear Lipcolor in Lasting Lust. Finishing with MAC Pro Longwear Clear Gloss.

The finished look:
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Hair stylist Cesar Ramirez was also inspired by the blood concept, leading him to create a look inspired by the heart, and the movement of blood vessels.

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The complete finished look:
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Preparing for the show to begin

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My personal favorite look

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This jacket is another favorite

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See the full photo set here.

My coverage of Katie Gallagher’s previous shows:
Fall/Winter 2011
Spring/Summer 2011
Fall/Winter 2010

All Photos and Content ®2011-2012 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Katie Gallagher Fall/Winter 2011

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Katie Gallagher is hands down one of my favorite up-and-coming New York designers, and one of the hardest working people I’ve ever met. Every single season, she comes up with amazing visual themes and concepts that she expertly translates into her clothing. Which she designs, cuts, and sews out of her apartment.

One of my biggest fall 2011 regrets is that I got so sick (thanks to running around in 20 degree weather all week!) that I missed her show. Luckily, my amazing assistant photographer Maureen was able to step in help cover the presentation, at Milk Studios.

Katie’s Fall collection was entitled “Gris-Gris”, and inspired by Vodoo culture. (Learn more about A Gris-gris, a sort of magical talisman here.)

Backstage, MAC Cosmetics make up artis Javier Romero took the vodoo them to the next level, creating a look that turned the models into makeshift vodoo dolls.

To get the look: A small section of cotton mesh was glued around the eyes.

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Next, using fingers and brushes, MAC Eyeshadow in “Carbon” was applied from lashes to brow bone through the mesh layer.

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Lips were left bare.

The finished look:
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Hair by Kerastase

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Katie makes some final adjustments:
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Katie’s clothing is always impeccable tailored, and fall 2011 was no exception:
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Leggings are a staple in Katie’s collections.

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Yellow breaks up the shades of gray.

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I say this every season, but no other designer I know of makes more interesting outerwear than Katie:
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Another stand out this season: Katie’s use of volume, with the addition of flowing dresses.
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If Katie Gallagher somehow hasn’t made it onto your radar yet, with her presence on nearly every “nyc designers to watch list”, she soon will.

See the full photo set here.

You can see my past coverage of Katie’s presentations here:
Fall 2010 and Spring 2011

All Photos ®2011 Maureen Kaveney for The Greyest Ghost.

Jeremy Laing Fall/Winter 2011

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Jeremy Laing is a designer that continues to impress me more and more each season. He has the uncanny ability to take something relatively normal, like say, a trench, and bend it to his will to make it extraordinary.

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I mean really. I’m not normally a fan of trench coats, but this looks like the softest, flowiest trench ever.

For Spring, I fell in love with Jeremy’s woven leathers, especially an incredibly long woven sweater coat that I still cannot stop thinking about. This season, for fall, he again managed to take traditional shapes and styles and update them to create something totally his own.

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Wide leg pants are in? Jeremy has extra-wide leg pants for you.

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There is almost something witchy about this look. Love it!

Moonscapes, and moon shapes play a huge role in the collection:
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Even this silhouette is rounded.

On a total, geeky photographer side note, I really admired the space Jeremy chose this season, Jack Studios. The lighting was phenomenal, and made the clothes stand out even more. It was so bright, the models almost seemed to glow, like they were about to disappear.

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Along with impeccable cut and draping, magnificently, all of the garments look incredibly comfortable!

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This coat literally had show-goers squealing:
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This hole-y dress was by far my favorite:
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Even its shadow is cool:
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I find myself admiring Jeremy’s collections so much each season, because, like so many of my favorite young designers, he’s not afraid to take risks. His designs may sometimes cross over into avant-garde territory, yet overall his collections remain completely wearable– without ever being boring.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2011 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

ERRO S/S 2011

ERRO: Sneak Peak

WHO:
ERRO
WHAT:Spring 2011 Collection
WHERE: 9/8/10, Openhouse Gallery

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Only in it’s 3rd season, ERRO is one collection that continues to impress me show after show.
Designer Anna Larson has the edgy, monochromatic look so many New Yorkers favor down pat. Lucky for us, she infuses enough variety and personal touches into her creations to set them apart from the seemingly endless parade of “gothic” inspired designers in the fashion world.

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Familiar shapes from the Fall 2010 collection made a re-appearance, but were updated in softer, lighter materials and colors.

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I personally love that ERRO embraces the darker side of fashion, while still making clothing that actually looks comfortable!

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Designer Anna Larson.

VERDICT: Edgy yet utterly wearable. ERRO once again earns a place on my shortlist of labels/designers to watch.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2010 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Katie Gallagher S/S 2011: Backstage and Presentation

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WHO: Katie Gallagher
WHAT: Spring 2011 Collection
WHERE: 9/11/10, Stoll Space

Katie Gallagher is hands down one of my favorite young independent designers in New York City. Unique materials, attention to detail, and her willingness to take risks most other young designers would not sets her apart from the crowd.

In person, her work is absolutely awe-inspiring.

I first fell in love with Katie’s designs at her F/W 2010 presentation. For Spring 2011, I was lucky enough to be invited to the presentation, and to cover backstage beauty for another brand I love, Makeup For Ever.

The Makeup For Ever team was led by key makeup artist Fernando Haddad:
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An avid runner, Katie’s Spring 2011 collection was inspired by Sports. To compliment the clothing, Fernando used colors from the collection, and based the style of makeup on Katie’s everyday look. The key factor, was a focus on the eyes.

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To get the look, Fernando started by prepping the face with HD Invisible Cover foundation. Matte Cold Red 158 and Matte Dark Purple 160 Eye Shadows were used under the lower lash line (alternating colors on the models). Rouge Artiste Intense Lipstick in # 22/satin nude was used on lips. Aqua Smoky Lash mascara on the lashes finished the look.

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The result:
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While the models were prepped, Katie put some final touches on the clothes:
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Waiting to be shot for the lookbook.

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The last adjustments are made before the models head upstairs for the presentation.

At the presentation, the models were arranged in two rows, standing on cement blocks:
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To me, this collection really stuck out due to Katie’s use of some familiar shapes and patterns from her past, re-imagined in shocking pops of bright color. Looking through photos from past season’s, it’s easy to see her progression as a designer. Lucky for us, she out does herself every season!

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One thing I find that always stands out in Katie’s collections— the coats and jackets.
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A closer look.

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This season, accessories were brought into the mix. Including this boxing glove purse:
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I also short video of the presentation. Warning, I’m no videographer. And flip cams tend to be a bit jumpy.

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It’s rare for me to wish I could fast forward through a designer’s career, to see where they go in the future, but Katie Gallagher genuinely piques my curiosity. Katie’s collections are never disappointing, and leave me desperately wanting to know what she will come up with next.

Katie Gallagher Gift Bag

Get more info on Katie here.
See the full photo sets here and here.

All Photos and Content ®2010 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Elisa Palomino F/W 2010

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One of my favorite shows this season at NYFW (and one of my favorite shows I’ve ever attended) was Elisa Palomino. Former studio head at John Galliano, Palomino also has worked at Moschino Cheap & Chic, Christian Dior, and most recently, Diane von Furstenberg. This was the very first runway show of her eponymous clothing line.

It was hands down, one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever witnessed.

The show took place in The Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen. Inside, it looked very much like an old library. A runway was set up with wooden benches in an atrium, backed by large Asian fans and decorated with dozens of hanging lanterns:

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The show was small compared to those at the neighboring tents, but the audience was full of influential people, including Palomino’s former employer Diane von Furstenberg, Lynn Yaeger and Patrick McDonald:

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The show began with the introduction of a trio of live singers:
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Gorgeously embellished dresses made of silks, chiffon, furs, and lace, and big hair dominated the show:
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Watching the models slowly walk down the runway was like going back in time to 1930’s Shanghai. A little bit “Lust, Caution” meets Frida Kahlo. With technicolor pink thrown in for good measure.

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The makeup perfectly complimented each dress, and the Marie Antoinette style head wear made the already large hair seem even more out of this world.

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An amazing, gorgeous dress.

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At the end, a smiling Elisa came out to greet an audience that had been completely blown away:Elisa Palomino 20

Even the models were cheering and clapping:
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Elisa, post-show with friends:
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I managed to briefly speak to Elisa and tell her beautiful her collection was. I’m so glad I was there to witness her very first show and meet Elisa, even if I was so excited all I could do was repeat the word “beautiful” over and over.

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Fingers crossed that the line gets picked up by all my favorite stores and I can start hunting down one of Elisa’s amazing dresses or jackets!

Much like a reader craves a sequel after finishing a good book in a series, I can’t wait to see whats to come from Elisa Palomino next spring.

See the entire photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2010 RS/The Greyest Ghost

Katie Gallagher F/W 2010

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Designer Katie Gallagher presented her fall/winter 2010 collection last Monday, February 15th at the Soho Grand hotel. When I first arrived, the space was so crowded it was nearly impossible to see the clothing. After a short while, the crowds cleared and I could see the entirety of the presentation. Which was gorgeous:

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Entitled “The Heart of the Woods and What I Found There”, the collection like the previous season, was inspired by one of Katie’s paintings ““Everything I make starts with my paintings, which I’ve done every season prior to construction. I love to try to re-create a three-dimensional version of whatever I’ve drawn; it requires pretty unconventional pattern-making.” *

Half of the collection was all black, and the other half a mix of white, silver, and cream. The combination was a beautiful collection of sheer leggings, tailored dresses, and satin, beaded, and leather jackets. The juxtaposition of materials would seem overwhelming in the hands of some designers, but Gallagher’s designs smoothly blend everything together to create something quite beautiful and ethereal.

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The entire presentation was viewed with only natural light from the windows streaming in. Trees surrounded the models, and even their fingernails, which were talon-like with burned tips, took on an organic quality.

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Hair was equally wild, and big. With tribal-esque eyeliner to match:
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Katie with her models.

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Post-show.

Beloved for her design sensibility which seems to be a mix of one part Rick Owens, one part dance wear, and one part organic sci-fi, Katie has been popping up on quite a few “up and coming designers” lists. If you’re smart, you’ll keep an eye on this promising young designer’s work!

See the full photo set here.
For stock photos visit ELLE.com (*Designer quote via Elle.com)