JENNY PACKHAM F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

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Jenny Packham’s Fall 2016 collection was influenced by the sparkle and glam of the 1980’s party scene, a topic which carried over into the hair and makeup inspiration as well.

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Makeup legend Bobbi Brown, using her eponymous line, created a glittery, yet imperfect look that appeared “as if models had done their makeup on the way to the show in a taxi”.

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The finished look:

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Hair was by AVEDA.

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Michelle Saunders for essie developed nail art based on a star textile from the runway collection. Two looks were created, one using a light, natural color, and another using a very pale purple.

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To get the look:
Look one: Apply First Base Coat, followed by two coats of Mademoiselle. Using a small nail art brush, paint a petite gold star on both the thumb, and one other finger using Good as Gold. Finish with Good to Go Top Coat.

Look two: Apply First Base Coat, followed by two coats of Lilacism. Using a small nail art brush, paint a petite gold star on both the thumb, and one other finger using Good as Gold. Finish with Good to Go Top Coat.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

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THOM BROWNE F/W 2016

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It should be pretty clear by now to anyone who reads this site occasionally, that Thom Browne is my favorite fashion designer currently showing in New York. More spectacle than traditional fashion show, his shows are my hands down favorite, can’t miss event of each season.

For Fall, the collection was inspired by “a walk in the park”– meaning Washington Square Park– circa one hundred years ago. Hair, usually styled more outlandishly season by season, was quite tame, allowing for the impeccable hats by Stephen Jones to shine instead. A vivid blue eyeshadow look brightened up the models’ pale faces.

According to Bumble and Bumble Lead Stylist Jimmy Paul, the hair style had a bit of a retro inspiration. “There’s a slight 1920s reference to the hair. Thom wanted the head as small as possible so we discussed ways to keep the hair close to the head. We’re essentially doing a wig wrap, the same way you’d prep the hair before putting on a wig. We’re going to make a headband with the hair and we’re using enough hairspray to make it look wet and actually stick.”

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To get the hair look: Jimmy used a traditional wig wrap technique to get the hair as tight to the head as possible. Wrapping the hair from one ear around the head, the hair was wet down with Thickening Hairspray to give the hair hold.

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To finish, Jimmy applied Bb.Gel for shine. –Instructions Via Bumble and Bumble.

Nails were painted in a pastel rainbow of colors. Lead manicurist Julie Kandalec, using ESSIE polish, created the look. The colors used (alternating on different models) were: Allure, Bikini so Teeny, Muchi Muchi, and Petal Pusher.

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The finished look:
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MAC Cosmetics’ genius makeup artist Sil Bruinsma (a frequent Thom Browne collaborator) remixed a classic 1920’s smokey eye, using bright vibrant blue eyeshadow.

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To get the look:

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Via MAC Cosmetics

The finished look:
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Once the beauty preparations were complete, I headed downstairs to see the clothes, and accessories.

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Dog bags!!!
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I also caught Stephen Jones in the midst of finalizing some hats for the show:
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Right before the show began:

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Thom Browne adjusting a look.

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One of my favorite models (and my friend!) Mick Szal opened the show as “The Woman in Red”.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins

SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2016 NYFW – DAY SEVEN

Naeem Khan:
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Nicopanda:
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DKNY:
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The Blonds:
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All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2016 NYFW – DAY FIVE

Jeremy Scott:

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Anna K:
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Karen Walker:
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Thom Browne:
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See the full album of Fall/Winter 2016 Sneak Peeks here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2016 NYFW – DAY FOUR

Jonathan Simkhai:
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Jenny Packham:

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See the full album of F/W 2016 Sneak Peek photos here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

DELPOZO S/S 2016

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DELPOZO is a brand that almost seems as if it would be more suitable to show at Paris fashion week. Frequently referred to as “demi-couture”, the brand’s epic, handmade collections are the highlight of my every NYFW, and the perfect way to end the frenzy of each season.

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Backstage, the look was all about a fresh face topped off with glitter eyes, and ultra-long, sleek hair.

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MAC lead makeup artist Monica Marmo described the look as having “skin super fresh like a flower, with metallic eyes for a little controversy.” This is “a woman from the future who is modern, but soft and beautiful.”

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Moroccanoil Creative Director Antonio Corral Calero created a very long, easy hairdo, with a twist– literally! Hair featured a small, twisted ponytail in the center.

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To get the look:

Apply 22-24″ extensions, for hair that is not naturally long.
Starting with damp hair, apply Moroccanoil Treatment and Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream to create the foundation of the style. Blow dry sleek and smooth.

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Once thoroughly dry, create a deep left side part. Gather 3″ sections at each side of the part and mist with hairspray. Comb sections back behind the ears and secure underneath the bulk of the hair at the nape of the neck with an elastic. This small ponytail should be hidden.
Flat iron all of the loose hair, gently rolling the iron from the mid-shaft to ends to create a natural bend.
Brush all of the loose hair smooth into a very low and loose ponytail – about mid-back – and secure with an elastic.
Use your finger to divide the ponytail in half above the elastic (creating a hole). Flip the ponytail up and through the hole to create the twisted style.
Set the style with a gentle mist of hairspray. — via Moroccanoil.

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Finally, Julie Kandalec for ESSIE created an adorable, subtle glitter nail that perfectly complimented the eye makeup, using Sparkle On Top.

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Two things I love the most about Delpozo collections: they always use interesting fabrics and materials, and play with volume. I can’t think of many other modern designers who have so much fun creating unique shapes and garments out of fabric.

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Spring also marked the introduction of a handbag collection:
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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2015-2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

Thom Brown Spring/Summer 2016

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It should be pretty apparent to readers of this site, by now, that Thom Browne is one of my favorite designers, and my hands down must see show during New York Fashion Week.

More sartorial spectacle and feast for the senses than traditional fashion show, Browne’s bi-annual women’s collection is presented in a unique, innovative way each season. As mentioned in the wonderful VOGUE.com review of the SS16 collection, it’s a tradition for the show’s theme to be tantamount to the theme of the clothing. There is no guess work for critics trying to decipher the current season’s inspiration.

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For SS16, this was Japan. Specifically Japanese School Girls.

Beauty wise, this translated into geisha inspired makeup, and traditional school girl braids– updated in a most untraditional way– with the braids hanging “upside down”!

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Continue reading

SNEAK PEEK: SPRING/SUMMER 2016 NYFW DAY EIGHT

DELPOZO:

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Bibhu Mohapatra:

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Katie Ermilio:

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The Blonds:

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All Photos and Content ®2015 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

See the full set of our Spring/Summer 2016 Sneak Peek photos here.

DELPOZO FALL/WINTER 2015

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Delpozo is unlike any other brand currently showing at New York Fashion Week. Elegant, impeccably tailored clothes, with gorgeous handmade embellishments that out-do much of what is shown on modern runways. The closest I can liken the experience to, is a less theatrical version of attending a Thom Browne show. And while both would seem more at home somewhere amongst the Paris couture shows, they stand out in a sea of “average”, and are the highlights of my NYFW show list.

Backstage, the works of painter Andrey Remnev served as inspiration for the collection, and the beauty, which translated into a look meant to mimic by “solid gold”.

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ESSIE lead manicurist Julie Kandalec created a look featuring a small, but flashy stripe of gold glitter, meant to look as if models had “just pulled their hands out of gold”. To get the look: Nails were prepped with one coat of Matte About You. Next, using a striping brush, Good As Gold was applied in a fine strip down the center of the nail. Gold glitter polish Rock at the Top was applied over the stripe, and the look was completed with a coat of Second Shine Around (only on the stripe).

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Julie at work.

The finished look:
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MAC senior artist Victor Cembellin created a “washed out” painterly makeup look, leaving skin and lips more natural, and focusing on the eyes.

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To get the look: A blend of Motif Eye Shadow, Pervette Lipstick, and Reflects Gold Pro Glitter were applied to the corners of the eye. To complete the process, Studio Waterweight Foundation was applied to model’s lips to tone down natural lip color while MAC’s Dare you lipstick was applied to cheeks to create a rosy accent.

The finished look:
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Hair focused on simplicity, with the focus this season being on the headpieces added just before the models walked the runway.

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The gorgeous, twisted fabric headpieces.

To get the look: Moroccanoil Global Creative Director Antonio Corral Calero applied Moroccanoil Treatment, and flat ironed hair straight. Next, hair was pulled into a sleek, side-parted ponytail. The look was finished by using Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray to secure the look, and delicately pulling the pony tails through the headpieces.

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The finished look:
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Much like their inspiration, the clothes themselves were works of art:

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Designer Josep Font, taking a bow.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2015 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.