Frank Tell Fall/Winter 2011

Yes, I still have an abundance of f/w ’11 nyfw shows to share! My shooting schedule lately has taken more time away from blogging, but now that things have calmed a bit for the next few days, it’s nice to revisit some photos from the last two months.

Frank Tell Fall 2011 (4)

Frank Tell’s f/w ’11 show was held in the tents for the first time this year, thanks to a sponsorship from W hotels. The Box, the smallest space in the tents seemed to be packed to the gills with spectators trying to catch a glimpse of the presentation.

Luckily for everyone, it repeated a second time, so I was able to squeeze forward into the photographer’s area and snap some photos.

Frank Tell Fall 2011 (1)

Frank Tell Fall 2011 (3)

Frank’s f/w ’10 collection was one of my favorites of the season (and also one of the most visually stunning presentations). But I didn’t care much for s/s ’11. It seemed slightly boring by comparison. Fall marked the return of my favorite Frank, the one that takes risks with edgy, torn garments, leathers, and crazy knits.

The look was post-apocalpytic huntress wear. With Mad Max-ish mohawk hairdos thrown into the mix. Frank admitted to finding inspiration by watching a lot of dark end of the world movies, like Planet of the Apes, prior to creating this collection– something that was very apparent to everyone in the room.

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I could see pieces from this collection being worn by the cast of The Hunger Games.

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When grouped together, some of the looks might seem extreme, but I found the collection to be enviously wearable, at least for those of us with a darker sense of style.

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Frank Tell Fall 2011 (20)

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When the world ends, I know which collection I’ll want to be wearing.

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See the whole photo set here.

®2011 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Ohne Titel Fall/Winter 2011 Backstage

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Backstage at Ohne Titel, futuristic, goth, and “spacey” were the words on everyone’s lips.

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MAC Makeup artist Lisa Butler created a strong, smokey eye, that mimicked a cat-eye shape, without making the eye appear smaller.

Ohne Titel

To get the look:
Start with MAC Studio Moisture Fix on the face. Touch up any imperfections with Studio Finish Concealer.

Ohne Titel Fall 2011 (14)

New York Fashion Week 2011

Ohne Titel Fall 2011 (12)

On eyes:
Blend Creme Shadow in “Blase” around the entire eye. Starting in the crease, blend into a point in the outer corner of the eye. Finish by blending in a straight line below the eye. Use Mac Eyeshadow “Charcoal Brown” in contours to add definition. Finish with Mac Eye Kohl “Smolder” lining the inner corner of top lashes.

On lips: Mac Glamglass “Entertain Me” was applied to the outer corners of lips.

Hair was inspired by NASA space suits. Jimmy Paul for Bumble and Bumble created a half up/half down modified corn-row look that left hair sleek, in order to balance out the large shoulders on the clothing.

New York Fashion Week 2011

New York Fashion Week 2011

New York Fashion Week 2011

New York Fashion Week 2011
Extensions were woven in to add length and fullness.

The finished product:
New York Fashion Week 2011

How to achieve this look: Hair was braided into four cornrows. Black thread was woven around the braids to pull them together, and keep them tight against the head.

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Ohne Titel Fall 2011 (45)

All photos ®2011 Maureen Kaveney for The Greyest Ghost.

Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent: Fall 2011 Preview

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Cynthia Vincent previews are always my favorite, because they are guaranteed to feature bright, colorful clothing in materials I love like velvet, silk, and amazing sheer fabrics.

It was snowing the day of the preview, which honestly, has become beyond annoying. But I found myself wishing Fall would hurry along after looking at so many great jackets and sweaters.
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I looove shearling!

Sweaters are always stand out pieces of each season’s collection for me. Cynthia Vincent sweaters are some of the softest I’ve ever felt.

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The great thing is each season, the styles continue to stay fresh, and are re-interpreted in new styles and patterns.

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I found myself especially drawn to this sweater cape.
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It’s so slouchy, it was hard to get a great photograph showing you all of the detail. It really caught my eye, based on the buckles, the length, and the fact that it has fitted sleeves. So many sweater capes are short, making the wearer look stumpy. This one is long, and adds shape and warmth while also remaining lean.

It’s always the little details, like stitching, that catch my eye:
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Katie Gallagher Fall/Winter 2011

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Katie Gallagher is hands down one of my favorite up-and-coming New York designers, and one of the hardest working people I’ve ever met. Every single season, she comes up with amazing visual themes and concepts that she expertly translates into her clothing. Which she designs, cuts, and sews out of her apartment.

One of my biggest fall 2011 regrets is that I got so sick (thanks to running around in 20 degree weather all week!) that I missed her show. Luckily, my amazing assistant photographer Maureen was able to step in help cover the presentation, at Milk Studios.

Katie’s Fall collection was entitled “Gris-Gris”, and inspired by Vodoo culture. (Learn more about A Gris-gris, a sort of magical talisman here.)

Backstage, MAC Cosmetics make up artis Javier Romero took the vodoo them to the next level, creating a look that turned the models into makeshift vodoo dolls.

To get the look: A small section of cotton mesh was glued around the eyes.

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Next, using fingers and brushes, MAC Eyeshadow in “Carbon” was applied from lashes to brow bone through the mesh layer.

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KATIE GALLAGHER

Lips were left bare.

The finished look:
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KATIE GALLAGHER

KATIE GALLAGHER

KATIE GALLAGHER
Hair by Kerastase

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KATIE GALLAGHER

Katie makes some final adjustments:
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KATIE GALLAGHER

Katie’s clothing is always impeccable tailored, and fall 2011 was no exception:
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KATIE GALLAGHER
Leggings are a staple in Katie’s collections.

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Yellow breaks up the shades of gray.

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KATIE GALLAGHER

I say this every season, but no other designer I know of makes more interesting outerwear than Katie:
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KATIE GALLAGHER

KATIE GALLAGHER

Another stand out this season: Katie’s use of volume, with the addition of flowing dresses.
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KATIE GALLAGHER

KATIE GALLAGHER

KATIE GALLAGHER

KATIE GALLAGHER

If Katie Gallagher somehow hasn’t made it onto your radar yet, with her presence on nearly every “nyc designers to watch list”, she soon will.

See the full photo set here.

You can see my past coverage of Katie’s presentations here:
Fall 2010 and Spring 2011

All Photos ®2011 Maureen Kaveney for The Greyest Ghost.

Mara Hoffman: Fall/Winter 2011 Backstage Beauty

Mara Hoffman: F/W '11 Backstage Sneak Peek

The atmosphere backstage at Mara Hoffman’s Fall ’11 show was like a beehive. A few dozen models, hair stylists and makeup artists packed into the smallest backstage area in the tents, diligently working to prepare for the show.

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To compliment the summery vibe of the collection, Makeup For Ever Alliance’s key makeup artist Lottie created an intense, Middle Eastern inspired look:
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“Sun kissed skin” and “deep smoky eyes” were the focal points:
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To get the look, Lottie used Aqua Black to upper and lower lash lines. Smoky Lash was used on eyelashes to “add drama”. Waterproof Eyebrow Corrector was applied to brows (using a disposable mascara wand) for added emphasis. Camouflage Concealer Palette #4 was used to maintain a neutral lip.

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Turbans added a final touch to the desert inspired look:
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The models’ fingers were painted black to mimic ink stains on their hands:
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Mara doing an interview before the show.

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The finished look:
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See the full photo set here.

®2011 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

Backstage at United Bamboo: Fall/Winter 2011

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Shiseido’s Dick Page never ceases to amaze me with the way he constantly re-invents old “classic” makeup looks again and again for the runway. Fall 2011 at United Bamboo was no different, where a traditional cat eye was “inverted” to create a stunning look.

Inspiration:
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To get the look:

Line lower lash line and water line with Shiseido Accentuating Creme Eyeliner in Black (#1). Continue the line past outer corners to create the winged look:
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Blend lightly with a sponge:
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Next, apply Shiseido Shimmering Creme Color in Mist with a brush blending toward the brow. Then smooth the Creme Color below the lower lash line, under the black eyeliner.

The final result:
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®2011 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

Karen Walker Fall/Winter 2011

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England’s Northern Soul music scene– in particular the Dexys Midnight Runners album “Searching for the Young Soul Rebels”, and the Wigan Casino nightclub– were heavy influences on Karen Walker’s Fall 2011 collection, entitled “North”.

Karen Walker Fall 2011 (1)

The hair carried the same heavy retro late 70’s influence, yet managed to stay fresh and modern. Lead stylist Rolando Beauchamp for Bumble and Bumble created the look inspired by the Dexys Midnight Runners song “Come on Eileen”.

Karen Walker Fall 2011

Hair was slicked back on top. Gellac was used to used to create a wet, swept back look on the sides. Hair was defrizzed, and finished with Spray de Mode hairspray. The soft rockabilly look was topped off with knit black beanies worn by the models.

Karen Walker Fall 2011 (2)

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Rolando at work.

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Spray de Mode and Gellac.

The finished look:
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Karen Walker Fall 2011 (17)

Angi Wingle for CND led the team of nail technicians, and created a “hazy and soft” matte black look for nails.

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Blackjack, and opaque black polish, was used. Followed by Super Matte top coat to create a nail that looked more like fabric. To achieve the look (and extend the life of your nail color!) Angi recommends the following: Start by using CND’s Scrub Fresh to clean the nail’s surface. Coat nails with a thin layer of Stickey Base Coat, to help prevent chipping. Follow with Solar Oil to nourish nails. Complete the process by coating nails with two thin layers of Blackjack, and after drying, Super Matte top coat.

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Angi believes that nails are “an accessory”, and that even in this harsh economic client all women can afford to get creative with their nails. “Nails are affordable for the working class woman”– I couldn’t agree more!

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I’ll definitely be replicating this look for myself. Matte black is a nice contrast to the usual, super shiny shade.

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The atmosphere backstage was relaxed, with models (many in Karen’s amazing sunglasses!) hamming it up for the cameras pre-show:
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Despite the silly moments, Karen was there to make sure everything ran smoothly:
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The collection itself was a combination of work wear, sportswear, and ladylike “Sunday Best” dresses, all looks women wore to dance all night at Wigan Casino.

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Continue reading

Yigal Azrouel Fall/Winter 2011: Backstage Beauty

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Yigal Azrouel’s Fall 2011 collection was highly influenced by men’s wear. In contrast, the beauty look was highly feminine.
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Hair was “easy going and light”, inspired by a “90’s Kate Moss”. A thick, but loose bun was complimented by black feathers worn like headbands.
Yigal Azrouel Fall 2011- Backstage (7)
The look was created by lead stylist Laurent Philippon for Bumble and Bumble.

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To achieve the look, start by applying Bumble and Bumble Prep to damp, towel-dried hair. Texture Gel (out this month) is used to thicken the hair, and add create a soft look. Make a low pony tail at the bottom of the neck, then twist hair up to create a loose chignon. Use six hair pins to secure the bun in place.

Yigal Azrouel Fall 2011- Backstage (6)

The makeup team, keyed by Lucia Pica for MAC, created a look that brought light to the models’ faces, and pulled colors from Yigal’s collection.

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Faces were prepped with Face + Body Foundation. Sand Brown, and Bark eye shadows were used on cheeks to create a contoured shadow. Fling, or Lingering eye shadows were used to accentuate brows, finished with Brow Set. Sparkle Gold Gloss, and Golden Lemon Pigment were applied to the eyes using the artist’s fingers.

Yigal Azrouel Fall 2011- Backstage (11)

A circle of Orange shadow was applied to the corner of the eye using a small brush. The eyes were finished with a light coat of mascara, at the roots of the lashes. To complete the look, lips were coated in a light layer of concealer, and topped off with Peachstock Lipstick.

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The finished look.

Along with the models and prep teams, actresses Vanessa Hudgens and Paz de la Huerta were also backstage.
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Vanessa and Paz.

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Yigal and Vanessa.

Yigal made sure each of the models looked perfect:
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Yigal Azrouel.

Final touch ups were made, and then the show began!
Yigal Azrouel Fall 2011- Backstage (25)

See the full photo set here.

®2011 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Nanette Lepore Fall/Winter 2011

Every season, Nanette Lepore always shows one of the most romantic, girly collections of NYFW. Sadly this season I missed her show due to a conflict. Luckily, Maureen was there to photograph the Fall collection. And boy is it gorgeous!

While Nanette is never one to shy away from color, the show started with creamy, winter whites:
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Great winter coats, in unique shapes and colors always make an appearance:
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Another stand out? The leather platform mary janes, seen in multiple colors. New York Fashion Week Fall 2011 - Nanette Lapore 20
I love that this dress, which alone would be quite summery, was winterized with closed toe shoes, and a wool blazer up top.

White tights add a cutesy feel to the looks:
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The show may be girly girl at it’s prime, but a few edgier looks were also thrown in the mix:
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Bows take this black leather dress from bondage to beautiful.

One of the only real “misses” in the collection for me. Love the style of the dress, but there is just too much going on with this print:
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What a great, retro-style coat!

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Sexy secretary.

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Another stand out dress. I’d wear it with different shoes though.

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One of my two favorite dresses from the collection. This dress captures a 1920’s feel, with out managing to be dated.

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My other favorite dress. I’m a sucker for anything sheer!

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I’m still enamored with the ruffled velvet dresses from Fall 2010, but this may just be my new favorite Nanette Lepore collection. Overall, I always enjoy because they manage to have something for everyone. Women of all ages can wear her clothes. Some designers who lean more towards the girlie side of fashion get stuck in a time-warp designing for teenagers and very young women. Nanette’s clothes let all women get in touch with their more romantic side.

See the full photo set here.

Photography: Maureen Kaveney for The Greyest Ghost Words: Rachel Scroggins
®2011 The Greyest Ghost

Jeremy Laing Fall/Winter 2011

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Jeremy Laing is a designer that continues to impress me more and more each season. He has the uncanny ability to take something relatively normal, like say, a trench, and bend it to his will to make it extraordinary.

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I mean really. I’m not normally a fan of trench coats, but this looks like the softest, flowiest trench ever.

For Spring, I fell in love with Jeremy’s woven leathers, especially an incredibly long woven sweater coat that I still cannot stop thinking about. This season, for fall, he again managed to take traditional shapes and styles and update them to create something totally his own.

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Wide leg pants are in? Jeremy has extra-wide leg pants for you.

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There is almost something witchy about this look. Love it!

Moonscapes, and moon shapes play a huge role in the collection:
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Even this silhouette is rounded.

On a total, geeky photographer side note, I really admired the space Jeremy chose this season, Jack Studios. The lighting was phenomenal, and made the clothes stand out even more. It was so bright, the models almost seemed to glow, like they were about to disappear.

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Along with impeccable cut and draping, magnificently, all of the garments look incredibly comfortable!

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This coat literally had show-goers squealing:
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This hole-y dress was by far my favorite:
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JEREMY LAING FALL 2011 (36)

Even its shadow is cool:
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I find myself admiring Jeremy’s collections so much each season, because, like so many of my favorite young designers, he’s not afraid to take risks. His designs may sometimes cross over into avant-garde territory, yet overall his collections remain completely wearable– without ever being boring.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2011 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost