THOM BROWNE: FALL/WINTER 2014

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Thom Browne does not put on a simple fashion show. His shows are an experience. Something rarely found in New York, that one would see more commonly during Paris’ Couture week.

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My third time seeing one of his collections presented  is something I’ll never forget.
I arrived backstage relatively early, at the tail end of the hair and makeup test. It’s always fun to see a preview of what’s to come, hours before the show is scheduled to begin. As usual, the beauty looks for this season did not disappoint.

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Katie Gallagher: Fall/Winter 2014 Backstage

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Katie Gallagher is a designer who I’ve followed since nearly the beginning of her career. Season after season, she impresses me with her continual growth as a designer and artist. Few other young designers in NYC so accurately conceptualize and transition a theme or idea into a clothing collection.

For Fall 2014, Katie’s collection Wonderland was inspired by abandoned amusement parks. The idea of “childlike details” and decay transitioned into details like giant hair bows worn by models, and worn in details of the clothing.

Her shows also feature one of the most symbiotic relationships between a collection’s theme or inspiration, the actual clothes, and the beauty looks worn by models. A process aided by working year after year with such strong creative team, consisting of MAC Director of Makeup Artistry Romero Jennings, and Catwalk by TIGI’s Global Creative Director Nick Irwin.

This season, Nick Irwin developed a look that “juxtaposed sleep transition into natural texture.”

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Adam Selman F/W 2014

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Before every fashion week, I scour the internet searching for new designers to feature on this blog. Pouring through “designers to watch” lists, checking for interesting looking brands on instagram, and googling every unknown name on the fashion calendar is regular procedure for me.

One designer that caught my eye –based on the bright disco inspired eye makeup his models wore for the SS14 show– was Adam Selman. The clothes? Just as eye catching. And then I discovered he was Rihanna’s costume designer and friend. Yes, that Rihanna. Soon it all made sense.

Backstage, bright colors and playful patterns of the FW14 collection once again commanded my attention. I always personally prefer bright, fun, or edgy makeup on models (neutral beauty at a fashion show is boring!), and this show did not disappoint.

One of the first things I noticed: The nail art. Or rather, finger art:

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An updated take on a french manicure, Nailing Hollywood nail artist Madeline Poole painted half of each nail with Chanel Nail Colour Polish in Black Satin. The henna inspired finger art was drawn on using Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner in Black.

Hair stylist Duffy, using ORIBE products, created a loose, Snoop Dogg inspired braid to compliment the 1990’s slant of the collection.

 

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ROSIE ASSOULIN F/W 2014

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I went in to the Rosie Assoulin show not knowing much about the designer other than she was developing a strong reputation for evening wear, and that she’d earned a place on many “designers to watch” lists over the past year. What I found when I arrived completely blew me away.

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Most models were in the midst of getting the finishing touches put on their hair and makeup looks for the show. But a few sneak peeks of the clothing happened here and there, showing glimpses of what was to come.

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MAC Executive Director of Makeup Artistry Lyne Desnoyers at work.

Together with Assoilin, who wanted the makeup to focus on “19th century rouge”, Desnoyers created a down to earth look that featured an almost bare face with berry stained lips, and a bright pop of blush high on the cheekbones. Peach, Rust, and Red tones were used on cheeks, depending on the model’s skin tone.

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Breakdown of the look/products used, via the MAC face chart

The finished look:

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Allen Wood for Bumble and Bumble created an updated ponytail meant to mimic the effortless look of hair tucked into a woman’s coat.

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To get the look, hair was sprayed with Thickening Spray, Surf Spray, and Bumble and Bumble Prep, then dried. A “quick roll” at the nape of the neck twisted the ponytail, which was then secured with pins.

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Finished hair and makeup:

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One of the things that stood out the most to me, upon viewing this collection, was the wonderful use of bright, intense colors as accent points that added a pop to each gown.

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Last but not least, my favorite dress. Assembled from hundreds of pieces of silk and velvet.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

OSCAR DE LA RENTA Fall/Winter 2014

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One of the shows I look forward to the most each season is Oscar de la Renta. I photograph a lot of shows, but every time I attend an ODLR show, I feel like I am truly witnessing something magical, rarely seen on the runways of New York Fashion Week.

As with the last few seasons, I arrived a few hours before the show to photograph the backstage preparations (and the show!) for the official Oscar PR Girl Pinterest page. Seeing how much care and detail goes into every aspect of the show is always pretty amazing. Not only are the clothes and models beautiful, but the little things like how the hair and makeup, accessories, styling, and even music all come together just blows my mind.

Below, some (ok, a lot!) of my favorite moments from show day:

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This season, models showcased a unique choppy hair style (custom trimmed wigs!).

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Gucci Westman preps Karlie Kloss for the show.

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SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2014– NYFW DAY EIGHT

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Sass & Bide

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SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2014– NYFW DAY SIX

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Rosie Assoulin

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Karen Walker

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Thom Browne

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HONOR

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All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2014– NYFW DAY FIVE

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Lela Rose

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Hood by Air

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All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost