KATIE GALLAGHER S/S 2016

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Katie Gallagher’s Spring 2016 collection was a love letter to her longtime NYC neighborhood, Chinatown. Featuring “bright colors, bold shapes, and strong aromatic scents that define the culture…” the clothing featured brighter colors this season, such as yellow and red, and plenty of texture.

Backstage, the theme of Chinatown translated into a modern Geisha inspired lip, and an updated chignon, that featured a twisted bun woven with rabbit hair scrunchies. Joseph DiMaggio for DAVINES led the hair team.

To get the look:
1. Prep clean hair with Davines More Inside This Is A Volume Boosting Mousse, distributing evenly from roots to ends.
2. Gather the hair on top of the head into a high ponytail with your hands.
3. Pull the tail through half way to create a loop at the base of the pony, securing with an elastic.
4. Wrap a (fur) scrunchie around the elastic as a base to wrap the tail around.
5. Flatten the loop toward the back of the head to create a half chignon and secure with bobby pins.
6. Use a topsy turvy tool to pull the tail through the fur scrunchie, repeating as many times needed to come to the end of the ponytail, creating a woven effect.
7. Clean up fly aways with Davines More Inside This Is A Medium Hair Spray.
8. Finish the look with NEW Davines More Inside This Is A Shimmering Mist for shine and polish.
-Via Davines

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The finished look

KATIE GALLAGHER- SPRING-SUMMER 2016 035 Continue reading

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ROSIE ASSOULIN F/W 2014

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I went in to the Rosie Assoulin show not knowing much about the designer other than she was developing a strong reputation for evening wear, and that she’d earned a place on many “designers to watch” lists over the past year. What I found when I arrived completely blew me away.

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Most models were in the midst of getting the finishing touches put on their hair and makeup looks for the show. But a few sneak peeks of the clothing happened here and there, showing glimpses of what was to come.

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MAC Executive Director of Makeup Artistry Lyne Desnoyers at work.

Together with Assoilin, who wanted the makeup to focus on “19th century rouge”, Desnoyers created a down to earth look that featured an almost bare face with berry stained lips, and a bright pop of blush high on the cheekbones. Peach, Rust, and Red tones were used on cheeks, depending on the model’s skin tone.

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Breakdown of the look/products used, via the MAC face chart

The finished look:

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Allen Wood for Bumble and Bumble created an updated ponytail meant to mimic the effortless look of hair tucked into a woman’s coat.

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To get the look, hair was sprayed with Thickening Spray, Surf Spray, and Bumble and Bumble Prep, then dried. A “quick roll” at the nape of the neck twisted the ponytail, which was then secured with pins.

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Finished hair and makeup:

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One of the things that stood out the most to me, upon viewing this collection, was the wonderful use of bright, intense colors as accent points that added a pop to each gown.

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Last but not least, my favorite dress. Assembled from hundreds of pieces of silk and velvet.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

OSCAR DE LA RENTA Fall/Winter 2014

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One of the shows I look forward to the most each season is Oscar de la Renta. I photograph a lot of shows, but every time I attend an ODLR show, I feel like I am truly witnessing something magical, rarely seen on the runways of New York Fashion Week.

As with the last few seasons, I arrived a few hours before the show to photograph the backstage preparations (and the show!) for the official Oscar PR Girl Pinterest page. Seeing how much care and detail goes into every aspect of the show is always pretty amazing. Not only are the clothes and models beautiful, but the little things like how the hair and makeup, accessories, styling, and even music all come together just blows my mind.

Below, some (ok, a lot!) of my favorite moments from show day:

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This season, models showcased a unique choppy hair style (custom trimmed wigs!).

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Gucci Westman preps Karlie Kloss for the show.

Continue reading

THOM BROWNE S/S 2014

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Thom Browne’s shows fall into that rare category of “what on Earth could I possibly say to do this justice” style events. Maybe in the future when memories can be downloaded, and relived by others via virtual reality, could someone who didn’t see it firsthand understand what it’s like to experience one of his shows. Which are not really just shows– but a spectacle.

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I arrived early enough to catch the makeup test. Which left a lot of the waiting press…surprised after catching their first glimpse.

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At this point, most of us were left wondering “what is going to happen during this show?!” But more on that later. 😉

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I also caught many of the finishing touches being put onto the clothing in the collection. Which had so much impeccable detail (as always!) that I had to remind myself I wasn’t in Paris, backstage at a couture show.

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Back to the “unusual” makeup for the show:

To break it down in the most simple way, one could say there were two looks for the show. The “nurses” and the “patients”. That’s right, the show’s main point of inspiration was an insane asylum.

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A nurse gets her makeup painted on.

The distinguishing looks breakdown as follows:
Nurses: “normal” face makeup, red lips, “normal” hair, topped off with a white snood.
Patients: “crazy” smeared makeup, wild bird’s nest hair, topped with a red snood.

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A patient.

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The full makeup instructions, straight from the source– MAC’s Sil Bruinsma:
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The key was the imperfect smudging of all the patients’ looks, to truly capture that crazed feeling. Nurses= same makeup, not smudged.

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Hair, by Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul continued with the nurse and patient theme, showcasing “normal and crazy” once again.

Nurses hair was teased, but otherwise kept mostly natural in appearance, then coated with a dusting of Bumble and Bumble white hair powder. Thom Browne S-S 2014-40

For the patients’ hair, the following steps were used:
Hair was doused with Surf Spray, then dried, and teased BIG. To add volume to the looks of models with finer hair, donuts were placed on top of the head, then covered with more teased hair. The look was then finished off with white Hair Powder.

The finished look:
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After hair and makeup was completed, I got to investigate many pieces of the collection up close.

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Supposedly these cats were “strangled by the pearls” of their insane mistress.

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A sketch artist’s work backstage.

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Getting into character.

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Thom at work.

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Note the anchors on the collar– the show also had a slight nautical theme.

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The show itself was definitely a unique experience. Starting about 40 minutes late, after nearly an hour of the pre-show jack-in-the-box-esque creepy musical soundtrack, many of those in the audience felt as if they too were being slowly driven insane. But it was sooo worth it.

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It was long, and it was creepy, and weird. But unlike anything else I’d ever seen at NYFW. Or really anywhere, ever. I can only describe it as Sleep No More meets One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest meets Queen Elizabeth’s court. Happening in slow motion, under flickering light bulbs, complimented by another bizarre soundtrack of meowing cats and toy instruments.

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The models all perfected the “I am dosed out of my mind on psychiatric drugs, now where the hell am I?” look. Meanwhile the nurses were passing out candy “pills” to show-goers.

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Designer Thom Browne.

In the end: it was the most original, and slightly disturbing show I saw all week. And I loved it!

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2013-2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

THAKOON S/S 2014: Backstage

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Back in September, I was lucky enough to be able to visit backstage at Thakoon SS14, to cover the nail art for one of my beauty clients.

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Morgan Taylor polishes provided the Parisian influenced nail art for the show.

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Thakoon’s inspiration was a young affluent parisian girl “adorned in pearls”, so to compliment that theme Morgan Taylor manicurists used 2 coats of Adorned in Diamonds, followed by a coat of Need for Speed Topcoat.

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The finished look:

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NARS Cosmetics’ Diane Kendal continued with the young Parisian theme, creating a fresh faced, very pink and rosy look.

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Products Used:
Sheer Glow Foundation on face
Anguilla Matte Multiple on cheeks
Cappadoce Matte Multiple on cheeks
Larger Than Life® Lengthening Mascara
Bali Eyeshadow on brows
Laos Matte Multiple on lips

The finished look:

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos ®2013-2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

KATE SPADE S/S 2014

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Kate Spade’s presentations are always one of my “don’t miss” shows of fashion week. Quirky hair and makeup, spectacular nails by Deborah Lippmann, and of course, the cute, whimsical clothes and handbags are inspiring season after season.

For Spring, Creative Director Deborah Lloyd was influenced by a European Tour, and frequent Kate Spade muse the 1960’s.

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The 60’s influence was visible in the unique black and white cat eye, created by JOUER’s Neil Scibelli.

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To get the look:

Apply JOUER Matte Moisture Tint to face, and set with Mattifying Translucent Powder. Cheeks were dusted with Mineral Powder Blush in “Peony”. For eyes, “Praline” Powder Eyeshadow was used on lids, with a cat eye created using Liquid Shimmer Eyeliner in “Panther” and white shimmer paint. After topping eyes with false lashes, the look was completed with “Kate” Lipstick, and “Blush” Moisturizing Lip Gloss.

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The finished look:
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Once again Deborah Lippmann created a fun, original look for the show’s nails. Inspired by a cap-toe show, the tips of each nail feature a silver design, with alternating colored stripes on each model.

To get the look: Start with Gel Lab Base Coat, then two coats of white shade Psuedo Silk Kimono. The tip of each nail is then painted in the silver shade Bad Moon Rising. Finally, an accent color is added to the end of the tip in It’s Raining Men (red), Groove is in the Heart (pink), or Walking on Sunshine (yellow).

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The finished look:
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In the end, everything came together to showcase an adorable, flirty European inspired collection.
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See the full set here.

All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

Delpozo S/S 2014

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Delpozo’s SS14 show, the brand’s second since relaunching the label in 2012, was one of the most breathtaking shows of the season. The best fashion shows, in my opinion, are always those that imbue a sense of magic or whimsy, which this collection had in spades. Leading to it quickly climbing to the top of my SS14 favorites list!

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The bright pops of color on the model’s eyes provided a nice contrast to the sweet, dreamy dresses in the collection.

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The hair for the show, created by Moroccanoil Artistic Director Antonio Corral Calero mixed volume with sleekness, presenting the look as a smooth ponytail, with heavy volume on top. Hair was both simple, and unique amongst the many looks of SS14.

To get the look: Moroccanoil Treatment was used to prep hair, which was then parted in the middle, flat ironed, and tied off in a ponytail. Hair was then backcombed from middle to ends, about 4″ above the ponytail. To finish, models’ locks were smoothed into a rounded shape and topped off with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Medium.

The finished look:
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Inspired by the Corot painting “Gypsy Woman with Tambourine”, and stained glass windows, the clothing was equally as beautiful as the hair and makeup:

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The collection, which struck me as at once both old-fashioned and modern, would be just as at home on a red carpet as it would on a woman walking down the aisle at her wedding.

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This dress is beyond gorgeous.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.