CAROLINA HERRERA SPRING/SUMMER 2018: BACKSTAGE

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Years ago, I photographed one of Carolina Herrera’s Bridal Fashion Week shows for BRIDES Magazine. And it was one of the most elegant shows I’ve ever attended. The Spring 2018 show was no different.

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Held in the Met Museum (the first time a fashion show has been allowed to take place inside!), the show was gorgeous and magical in a way I haven’t experienced since the final show by the late and great Oscar de la Renta.

Backstage, Morgan Taylor Lead Artist Gina Edwards designed the nail art look, which consisted of an elegant “cloud-like white” nail, created using “Heaven Sent” nail lacquer.

The finished look:
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Makeup wise, MAC Cosmetics provided the beauty look, which focused on fresh smooth skin, and a kohl-rimmed eye.

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To get the look:
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Finishing things off, beauty wise, TRESemmé NYFW Stylist Odile Gilbert presented a “sleek is chic” smooth, straight hair look.

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To get the hair look:
Start by washing hair with TRESemmé Keratin Smooth Shampoo and Conditioner. Generously spray TRESemmé Keratin Smooth Heat Protect Spray to damp hair, and apply TRESemmé TRES Two Extra Hold Mousse to the roots (before blow drying!). Create a clean center part and blow-dry, use a curling iron to soften the ends and create subtle curve. Take the section of hair (before the ear) on each side and secure underneath the remaining hair with an elastic band at the nape of the neck. To finish, secure the look with TRESemmé TRES Two Freeze Hold Hair Spray for a neat and even consistency.

Via TRESemmé.

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The finished look:
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The collection was just as beautiful and elegant as one would expect from Carolina Herrera. Featuring bold, vibrant colors, embroidered gowns, and flirty tulle accents. I would wear almost every one of the stunning dresses presented.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2017-2018 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

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LIBERTINE SPRING/SUMMER 2018: BACKSTAGE

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Libertine’s NYFW shows are another reminder that yes, there are still SOME designers left showing in New york who take chances, and have fun with their collections and shows.

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Backstage, lead nail artist Heather Reynosa and the CND Design Lab created another standout, funky look that incorporated aspects of the eclectic “punk couture” collection. The nails were truly “wearable art”.

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Crystals, fringe, skulls, safety pins, bird heads, dollar signs, venus fly traps, vials of “blood”, and even miniature “pills” decorated the nails, which had been handcrafted over a 3 month period before the show.

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Tousled hair, tucked into model’s coats and jackets was compliments of EVO. With Too Cool for School makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes finishing the beauty look with a glittery, smokey eye. Products used included Glam Rock Urban Shadow in #10 Metal Chic.

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It’s easy to see why the fun, incredibly embellished collection ended up being one of my favorites of the season!

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2017-2018 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

JEREMY SCOTT S/S 2018: BACKSTAGE

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Jeremy Scott’s fashion shows are vibrant, colorful affairs in the sea of NYFW “sameness”. Along with the always funky and fun clothing, it’s the perfect environment to catch some of the most innovative and creative beauty brands in the business at work.

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Backstage, the ever trendsetting CND showcased bright neon nails, with glitter dipped fingertips. Created by CND Creative Ambassador Miss Pop, the look perfectly complimented the intergalactic space odyssey themed collection by Scott.

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After dusting the fingers with silver glitter, the CND team applied nails painted with 2 alternating shades of CND Shellac. Hot Pop Pink, and a neon orange from the upcoming Spring 2018 collection. The oval shaped nails also alternated both gloss, and matte topcoats. Shellac Matte Top Coat created the matte look.

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Frequent Jeremy Scott collaborator and MAC Key Makeup Artist Kabuki created a more subtle look than usual for this season’s runway show.

Studio Waterweight Foundation, and Studio Correct and Conceal palette were used to lightly correct and create “newborn baby skin”. For the eyes, lashes were curled, and eyebrows were brushed upward. But no mascara was used. A sheer lip color was then applied in matching tones to mimic each model’s natural lip shade. To finish the look, crystals were dotted under models’ eyes to incorporate the “bling” of the collection.

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Supermodel Coco Rocha

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To complete the behind the scenes looks, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director and ghd Ambassador, Eugene Souleiman created “sassy” party girl hair styles, unique to each model.

Souleimain said: ““I wanted to create something wearable that is unique to each models individual character. In the past we have created strong, conceptual looks that embrace the mood of the clothes and the statement Jeremy is making. This season the statement is, there is no statement. The hair is relaxed and beautiful. I want every girl to look in the mirror and like the way they look, then leave the show wearing the look.”

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Gigi’s bouncy  ponytail

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Karlie in the styling chair

To get the look:
1. Blow dry wet hair to straighten and lengthen using ghd Air Hairdryer and Wella Professionals EIMI Perfect Me to hold hair in place
2. Prep hair with Wella Professionals EIMI Extra Volume Mousse, pressing into the hair rather than brushing through to add sharpness and definition and then pull hair back and shape into ponytail ensuring hair is high enough
3. Starting at the roots, use ghd Platinum styler to work downwards, adding more tension as you pull hair down to craft a sleek, straight look. Let hair cool down and then brush out the pony
4. To finish the look spray Wella Professionals EIMI Stay Firm for a strong, controlled finish — VIA WELLA.

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Jasmine Tookes with a cute updo

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2017-2018 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

KATIE GALLAGHER S/S 2016

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Katie Gallagher’s Spring 2016 collection was a love letter to her longtime NYC neighborhood, Chinatown. Featuring “bright colors, bold shapes, and strong aromatic scents that define the culture…” the clothing featured brighter colors this season, such as yellow and red, and plenty of texture.

Backstage, the theme of Chinatown translated into a modern Geisha inspired lip, and an updated chignon, that featured a twisted bun woven with rabbit hair scrunchies. Joseph DiMaggio for DAVINES led the hair team.

To get the look:
1. Prep clean hair with Davines More Inside This Is A Volume Boosting Mousse, distributing evenly from roots to ends.
2. Gather the hair on top of the head into a high ponytail with your hands.
3. Pull the tail through half way to create a loop at the base of the pony, securing with an elastic.
4. Wrap a (fur) scrunchie around the elastic as a base to wrap the tail around.
5. Flatten the loop toward the back of the head to create a half chignon and secure with bobby pins.
6. Use a topsy turvy tool to pull the tail through the fur scrunchie, repeating as many times needed to come to the end of the ponytail, creating a woven effect.
7. Clean up fly aways with Davines More Inside This Is A Medium Hair Spray.
8. Finish the look with NEW Davines More Inside This Is A Shimmering Mist for shine and polish.
-Via Davines

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The finished look

KATIE GALLAGHER- SPRING-SUMMER 2016 035 Continue reading

ROSIE ASSOULIN F/W 2014

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I went in to the Rosie Assoulin show not knowing much about the designer other than she was developing a strong reputation for evening wear, and that she’d earned a place on many “designers to watch” lists over the past year. What I found when I arrived completely blew me away.

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Most models were in the midst of getting the finishing touches put on their hair and makeup looks for the show. But a few sneak peeks of the clothing happened here and there, showing glimpses of what was to come.

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MAC Executive Director of Makeup Artistry Lyne Desnoyers at work.

Together with Assoilin, who wanted the makeup to focus on “19th century rouge”, Desnoyers created a down to earth look that featured an almost bare face with berry stained lips, and a bright pop of blush high on the cheekbones. Peach, Rust, and Red tones were used on cheeks, depending on the model’s skin tone.

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Breakdown of the look/products used, via the MAC face chart

The finished look:

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Allen Wood for Bumble and Bumble created an updated ponytail meant to mimic the effortless look of hair tucked into a woman’s coat.

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To get the look, hair was sprayed with Thickening Spray, Surf Spray, and Bumble and Bumble Prep, then dried. A “quick roll” at the nape of the neck twisted the ponytail, which was then secured with pins.

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Finished hair and makeup:

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One of the things that stood out the most to me, upon viewing this collection, was the wonderful use of bright, intense colors as accent points that added a pop to each gown.

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Last but not least, my favorite dress. Assembled from hundreds of pieces of silk and velvet.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

OSCAR DE LA RENTA Fall/Winter 2014

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One of the shows I look forward to the most each season is Oscar de la Renta. I photograph a lot of shows, but every time I attend an ODLR show, I feel like I am truly witnessing something magical, rarely seen on the runways of New York Fashion Week.

As with the last few seasons, I arrived a few hours before the show to photograph the backstage preparations (and the show!) for the official Oscar PR Girl Pinterest page. Seeing how much care and detail goes into every aspect of the show is always pretty amazing. Not only are the clothes and models beautiful, but the little things like how the hair and makeup, accessories, styling, and even music all come together just blows my mind.

Below, some (ok, a lot!) of my favorite moments from show day:

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This season, models showcased a unique choppy hair style (custom trimmed wigs!).

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Gucci Westman preps Karlie Kloss for the show.

Continue reading

THOM BROWNE S/S 2014

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Thom Browne’s shows fall into that rare category of “what on Earth could I possibly say to do this justice” style events. Maybe in the future when memories can be downloaded, and relived by others via virtual reality, could someone who didn’t see it firsthand understand what it’s like to experience one of his shows. Which are not really just shows– but a spectacle.

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I arrived early enough to catch the makeup test. Which left a lot of the waiting press…surprised after catching their first glimpse.

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At this point, most of us were left wondering “what is going to happen during this show?!” But more on that later. 😉

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I also caught many of the finishing touches being put onto the clothing in the collection. Which had so much impeccable detail (as always!) that I had to remind myself I wasn’t in Paris, backstage at a couture show.

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Back to the “unusual” makeup for the show:

To break it down in the most simple way, one could say there were two looks for the show. The “nurses” and the “patients”. That’s right, the show’s main point of inspiration was an insane asylum.

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A nurse gets her makeup painted on.

The distinguishing looks breakdown as follows:
Nurses: “normal” face makeup, red lips, “normal” hair, topped off with a white snood.
Patients: “crazy” smeared makeup, wild bird’s nest hair, topped with a red snood.

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A patient.

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The full makeup instructions, straight from the source– MAC’s Sil Bruinsma:
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The key was the imperfect smudging of all the patients’ looks, to truly capture that crazed feeling. Nurses= same makeup, not smudged.

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Hair, by Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul continued with the nurse and patient theme, showcasing “normal and crazy” once again.

Nurses hair was teased, but otherwise kept mostly natural in appearance, then coated with a dusting of Bumble and Bumble white hair powder. Thom Browne S-S 2014-40

For the patients’ hair, the following steps were used:
Hair was doused with Surf Spray, then dried, and teased BIG. To add volume to the looks of models with finer hair, donuts were placed on top of the head, then covered with more teased hair. The look was then finished off with white Hair Powder.

The finished look:
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After hair and makeup was completed, I got to investigate many pieces of the collection up close.

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Supposedly these cats were “strangled by the pearls” of their insane mistress.

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A sketch artist’s work backstage.

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Getting into character.

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Thom at work.

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Note the anchors on the collar– the show also had a slight nautical theme.

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The show itself was definitely a unique experience. Starting about 40 minutes late, after nearly an hour of the pre-show jack-in-the-box-esque creepy musical soundtrack, many of those in the audience felt as if they too were being slowly driven insane. But it was sooo worth it.

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It was long, and it was creepy, and weird. But unlike anything else I’d ever seen at NYFW. Or really anywhere, ever. I can only describe it as Sleep No More meets One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest meets Queen Elizabeth’s court. Happening in slow motion, under flickering light bulbs, complimented by another bizarre soundtrack of meowing cats and toy instruments.

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The models all perfected the “I am dosed out of my mind on psychiatric drugs, now where the hell am I?” look. Meanwhile the nurses were passing out candy “pills” to show-goers.

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Designer Thom Browne.

In the end: it was the most original, and slightly disturbing show I saw all week. And I loved it!

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2013-2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost