SUNO F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

SUNO FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 015 Beauty wise, SUNO is a brand known for having gorgeous, yet understated backstage beauty looks for its shows. Natural, but with a touch of quirky. For Fall, Odile Gilbert for Kérastase created a “graphic yet chic” ponytail, featuring velvet satin ribbon, to texturize models’ hair.

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To get the look:

1. Prep and wash hair with Nutritive Bain Satin 1 and Nutritive Lait Vital.
2. On damp hair, apply the NEW! L’Incroyable Blowdry Heat Lotion all over the hair and Crème de la Crème to just the ends.
3. Next, part the hair down the middle and roughly blow-dry. After dry, apply Powder Bluff at the roots (for greasy roots) or V.I.P (for extra volume).
4. Then, pull hair back into a low ponytail and secure with an elastic. Gently loosen hair around the nape of the neck to give a lived in, natural look.
5. Spray hair all over with Laque Dentelle.
6. Next, take ribbon and wrap the ponytail, crisscrossing the ribbon down the hair. Tie the ribbon once 3/4 of the way down the ponytail.
7. Finish the style by spraying Laque Dentelle all over for a flexible, versatile hold.

-Via Kérastase

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NARS Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer created a clean, natural look that made the models appear “flushed and wind burned”, inspired by “aristocratic nomads”.

Products used to get the look include: On the face: NARSSkin Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer, Stick Concealer, Soft Velvet Loose Powder. On Cheeks: Leslie Audacious Lipstick On Brows: Oural Brow Gel On Lips: Unspeakable Velvet Lip Glide. Also dabbed on cheekbones and the forehead to create the sun-kissed look.

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To complete the look, Danielle Candido for Morgan Taylor created a dark, strong neutral nail.

To get the look: 2 coats of Latte Please were painted onto the model’s natural nails. The nail was then topped off with Need for Speed high shine top coat.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

THAKOON S/S 2014: Backstage

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Back in September, I was lucky enough to be able to visit backstage at Thakoon SS14, to cover the nail art for one of my beauty clients.

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Morgan Taylor polishes provided the Parisian influenced nail art for the show.

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Thakoon’s inspiration was a young affluent parisian girl “adorned in pearls”, so to compliment that theme Morgan Taylor manicurists used 2 coats of Adorned in Diamonds, followed by a coat of Need for Speed Topcoat.

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The finished look:

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NARS Cosmetics’ Diane Kendal continued with the young Parisian theme, creating a fresh faced, very pink and rosy look.

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Products Used:
Sheer Glow Foundation on face
Anguilla Matte Multiple on cheeks
Cappadoce Matte Multiple on cheeks
Larger Than Life® Lengthening Mascara
Bali Eyeshadow on brows
Laos Matte Multiple on lips

The finished look:

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos ®2013-2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

SNEAK PEEK: F/W 2013 NYFW- DAY FOUR

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Christian Siriano

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Christian Siriano

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Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony

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Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony

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Jen Kao

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Louise Amstrup

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Jonathan Simkhai

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Jonathan Simkhai

All Photos and Content ®2013 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

ERIN FETHERSTON S/S 2013

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Back on the very first unofficial day of NYFW, I stopped by backstage at Erin Fetherston’s S/S 2013 show. While I sadly couldn’t stay for the presentation (I had to dash uptown to another show!), I got to spend some time learning about the girlish, fun Brigitte Bardot inspired look.

Kérastse’s Odile Gilbert took the Bardot inspiration and “toughened it up” with a (working!) zippered headband. Bangs were parted to the side, then twisted back into the zipper’s opening.

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To get the look: Hair was prepped with Kérastse Mousse Volumative to add body. Hair was then curled into loose waves using a large barrel curling iron. After securing hair with the headband, the look was finished with Double Force Hair Spray, and a small dollop of Elixir Ultime Rose Milleanaire on the ends.

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MAC lead makeup artist Lyne Desnoyers was inspired by photos Erin showed her, shot by photographer Ellen von Unwerth. In response, she created a “neo-cat eye” tailored to the shape of each models’ eyes. The look was thick on the upper lash line, while gently blended on the bottom.

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To get the look: Skin was perfected with MAC Cosmetics Pro Concealer Palette, and Mineralize Moisture SPF 15 Foundation. A mix of Cream Colour Base in Pearl, and Luna were used to highlight cheekbones. With Skinsheen Bronzer dusted over the face to give the models a warm glow. Kohl Power Eye Pencil in Feline was used on upper lids for the cat eye, with the lower lashes finished with Carbon eye shadow. The lip color was a custom blend of orange, white, and nude Lip Mix.

The finished look:
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Erin wanted nail art that complimented the clothing, but that would also serve as an additional “accessory”.

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Butter London’s Katie Hughes painted nails in two shades: “Lillibet’s Jubilee”, a metallic violet-silver, and “The Full Monty”, a metallic gold.

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The complete finished look:
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Designer Erin Fetherston

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2012-2013 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

Monique Lhuillier S/S 2013: Backstage

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Monique Lhuillier’s Spring 2013 collection was inspired by one of my favorite things: the ocean. Naturally, that led the beauty to be appropriately mermaid-esque, featuring one of my other favorite things: the color turquoise.

Val Garland for MAC Cosmetics created one of my top looks of the season– an aquatic inspired dramatic blue and gold eye. “Jerry Hall on holiday in Mustique” served as additional inspiration.

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Products used.

To get the look: Cover lid with Mac Chromacake in High Def Cyan. Follow with matching Electric Eel Eyeshadow, blending to outer edge of the eye. Brush Gold Metallic Pigment, mixed with Shine Mixing Medium onto corner of eyes. Apply Luxe Lipstick to lips. Finish with the application of Strobe Cream all over the body.

Val Garland’s additional suggestions to make it last all day/night: 1. Use a primer first. 2. Use eye pencil to color over lid, blending to the edges. 3. Powder over lid with translucent powder.

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Kérastase’s Odile Gilbert also used the show’s aquatic theme to create a mermaid inspired look for hair. To get the look: Part hair in the center. Spray Double Force Controle Ultime Hair Spray from the center area of hair, to the tips. Next, crimp hair with a three-barrel curling iron to create waves. To achieve a “wet” finished look, apply Elixir Ultime liberally, topping the hair off with more Double Force Controle Ultime for hold.

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SUNO F/W 2012: Backstage

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For their fall show, SUNO’s trademark quirky prints took a decidedly military inspiration, an influence also evident in their backstage beauty looks.

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Kérastase lead stylist Odile Gilbert created an imperfect “knotty chignon on the side”, a style that would be easy for the average woman to DIY.

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To get the look:
Hair was prepped with Kérastase Lotion Densitive, and Kérastase Mousse Substantive. Next, hair was blow dried straight, and parted on the side.

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Odile at work.

After twisting hair up into a chignon, front pieces of hair were removed from the bun to give it a messy look. Kérastase Double Force Controle Ultime Hairspray was used to hold the hair in place.

The finished look:

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MAC key artist Carole Colombani created a makeup look that was “half party girl, half soldier”.

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To get the look:
MAC Face and Body Foundation was used to create a beautiful, but not overdone complexion. Pro Sculpting Cream in Copper Beach was mixed with Creamblend Blush in Ladyblush to create a rosy glow on cheeks. No product was used on lips. Eyes were lined in Eye Kohl in Teddy, and Pro Longwear Eye Shadow in Mauveless was used on lids. Pressed Pigments in Day Gleam and Deeply Dashing were dusted on to add shimmer and depth to the look.

The finished look:
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ESSIE for Haven Spa manicurists finished off the look with ESSIE’s Jazz (taupe) followed by one coat of
Main Squeeze (shiny lilac).

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The overall, finished look:
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See the full photo set here.
And be sure to check back for the full runway photo set/show review soon!

All Photos and Content ®2012 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Phillip Lim S/S 2012

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For his Spring 2012 show, designer Phillip Lim was inspired by kites. The flowing, geometric characteristics found their way not only into the clothing, but the backstage beauty looks as well.

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Odile Gilbert for Kérastase created a “windblown knot” hairstyle for the runway. Gilbert smoothed and straightened the hair by applying Kérastase Fibre Architecte, then blowing dry. Hair was then tied into a low, messy knot. Pieces from the crown were removed, and pinned sideways along the back of the head to give hair a wind swept appearance.

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NARS National Makeup Artist Francelle took Lim’s kite inspiration one step further, creating a sweeping eyeshadow look that mimicked a kite-tail.

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To get the look: Francelle prepped skin with PRO-PRIME Pore Refining Primer, and NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer. Copacabana Illuminator was dabbed onto cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, and the bow of the lip to add a glowing effect. The inner lids of the eye were lined in NARS Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Rue Bonaparte.

The crease of the eyelids were highlighted with a mix of NARS Night Life Eyeshadow and the silver color from the NARS Paris Duo Eyeshadow Palette. Eyes were finished with six coats of NARS Larger Than Life Mascara. Lips were coated with a light layer of concealer, then brushed with NARS Gaeity Blush to add a girlish tone.

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Some of the products used.

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Angi Wingle

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CND Nail Tech Angi Wingle created a subtle nail “stain” that let the natural color of the models’ nail beds shine through. The “raincoat of color” goes on as a transparent, natural nail enhancer, rather than an opaque color. To create the color, Angi added 4-5 drops of CND Raspberry Parfait to CND Speedy Topcoat.

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While explaining the steps to get this look, I learned that the same process can be applied to old or dry nail polish. Just add a few drops of topcoat to renew the color!

The final hair/makeup/nail look:

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Models preparing for a run-through

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Covetable sandals

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Designer Phillip Lim, mid-interview

While many of his creations are more minimalist than my personal taste, Lim’s Spring collection stood out to me for it’s use of sherbert-inspired shades, and colorful leathers.

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It also season after season consistently features one of the best runway soundtracks of any show I’ve ever attended. For Spring, it was Jamie of The XX’s “Far Nearer”.

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The raincoat that inspired this season’s nail art.

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See the full photo set here

All Photos and Content ®2011-2012 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Katie Gallagher S/S 2012

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Katie Gallagher creates collections that completely embody a theme with more skill than any other young designer I have ever encountered. With a talent, vision, and work ethic that defies her years, Katie’s collections are a consistent favorite, season after season.

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For Spring, Katie was inspired by blood. “Not the blood of nightmares of brutality, but the blood that’s sanguine, living and the brightest red. Always moving, coursing, and restless inside us. All the while staying hidden to the outside world.”

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Every last detail of her show is executed to perfection. Hair and makeup looks are just inspired as Katie’s designs, this season drawing inspiration from the bloodstream (makeup) and the heart (hair). Even the set design (vials of blood) and hand-picked show music complements the designs.

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Nails by Color Club

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Makeup artist Javier Romero “imagined dipping the model’s face inside a blood vessel”, and created his own mascara to capture the precise look.

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Romero first applied MAC Mineralize Charged Water Moisturizer, followed by Matchmaster SPF15 Foundation to even out skin. MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural Foundation was dusted over the T-zone. For eyes, MAC Chromographic Pencil in Pro Basic Red was used around the upper lash line. MAC Pro Lash, MAC Mixing Medium, and Mac Pigment in Pro Basic Red were mixed together to create red mascara. Next, MAC 30 Lash was applied to upper lashes, and eyelids were glossed with MAC Pro Gloss Texture.

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For lips, Romero started with MAC Chromographic Pencil in Pro Basic Red, then blended MAC Pro Longwear Lipcolor in Lasting Lust. Finishing with MAC Pro Longwear Clear Gloss.

The finished look:
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Hair stylist Cesar Ramirez was also inspired by the blood concept, leading him to create a look inspired by the heart, and the movement of blood vessels.

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The complete finished look:
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Preparing for the show to begin

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My personal favorite look

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This jacket is another favorite

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See the full photo set here.

My coverage of Katie Gallagher’s previous shows:
Fall/Winter 2011
Spring/Summer 2011
Fall/Winter 2010

All Photos and Content ®2011-2012 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost