SPRING/SUMMER 2018 SNEAK PEEKS: DAY FOUR

Sandy Liang:

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Hair: Danilo for Amika. Makeup: Koh Gen Do

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Designer Sandy Liang with her models.

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Stay tuned for a full show recap soon!

All Photos and Content ®2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

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SELF PORTRAIT F/W 2016

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Self Portrait is one of the most exciting recent additions to the New York Fashion Week lineup. I’ve been a fan of the brand for a while now, after discovering them on ASOS.com, and I was thrilled to see they’d decided to start showing the new collections in NYC last year. Known for innovative mixes of lace with unconventional fabrics on dresses, the Fall collection included the addition of separates, turtlenecks, and bomber jackets. Backstage, Bumble and Bumble stylist Jimmy Paul developed a look that complimented the fresh faced makeup, with heavy, fringe-y clip in bangs– used to create “uniformity” amongst the models.

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To get the look:  Apply Bb.Gel into hands and pull hair into a high ponytail and secure with elastic, creating a loop in the hair and allowing the rest of the ponytail to fall. For added shine, apply more Bb.Gel. Attach a clip-in bang and dampen with Prep. Each bang was razor cut to personalize the look to each model. – Via Bumble and Bumble

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The clip-in bangs.

The finished look:
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Gucci Westman for Tata Harper beautified models’ skin, creating a romantic, luminous, fresh faced look.

To get the look: Prep skin with Tata Harper Beautifying Face Oil, then use Reparative Moisturizer to achieve a radiant glow. Apply Restorative Eye Cream around the eyes to “refresh tired looking eyes”. Contour under cheekbones with a light bronzer, use nude lip gloss (with matching liner) to enhance lips, and apply matte brown eyeshadow to the top and bottom of eyes.

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To finish the process, apply Tata Harper Revitalizing Body Oil, and Redefining Body Balm all over the body. – Via Tata Harper.

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Lace and embroidery details of the impeccable dresses:
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The presentation:

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

THOM BROWNE S/S 2014

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Thom Browne’s shows fall into that rare category of “what on Earth could I possibly say to do this justice” style events. Maybe in the future when memories can be downloaded, and relived by others via virtual reality, could someone who didn’t see it firsthand understand what it’s like to experience one of his shows. Which are not really just shows– but a spectacle.

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I arrived early enough to catch the makeup test. Which left a lot of the waiting press…surprised after catching their first glimpse.

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At this point, most of us were left wondering “what is going to happen during this show?!” But more on that later. 😉

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I also caught many of the finishing touches being put onto the clothing in the collection. Which had so much impeccable detail (as always!) that I had to remind myself I wasn’t in Paris, backstage at a couture show.

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Back to the “unusual” makeup for the show:

To break it down in the most simple way, one could say there were two looks for the show. The “nurses” and the “patients”. That’s right, the show’s main point of inspiration was an insane asylum.

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A nurse gets her makeup painted on.

The distinguishing looks breakdown as follows:
Nurses: “normal” face makeup, red lips, “normal” hair, topped off with a white snood.
Patients: “crazy” smeared makeup, wild bird’s nest hair, topped with a red snood.

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A patient.

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The full makeup instructions, straight from the source– MAC’s Sil Bruinsma:
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The key was the imperfect smudging of all the patients’ looks, to truly capture that crazed feeling. Nurses= same makeup, not smudged.

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Hair, by Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul continued with the nurse and patient theme, showcasing “normal and crazy” once again.

Nurses hair was teased, but otherwise kept mostly natural in appearance, then coated with a dusting of Bumble and Bumble white hair powder. Thom Browne S-S 2014-40

For the patients’ hair, the following steps were used:
Hair was doused with Surf Spray, then dried, and teased BIG. To add volume to the looks of models with finer hair, donuts were placed on top of the head, then covered with more teased hair. The look was then finished off with white Hair Powder.

The finished look:
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After hair and makeup was completed, I got to investigate many pieces of the collection up close.

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Supposedly these cats were “strangled by the pearls” of their insane mistress.

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A sketch artist’s work backstage.

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Getting into character.

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Thom at work.

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Note the anchors on the collar– the show also had a slight nautical theme.

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The show itself was definitely a unique experience. Starting about 40 minutes late, after nearly an hour of the pre-show jack-in-the-box-esque creepy musical soundtrack, many of those in the audience felt as if they too were being slowly driven insane. But it was sooo worth it.

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It was long, and it was creepy, and weird. But unlike anything else I’d ever seen at NYFW. Or really anywhere, ever. I can only describe it as Sleep No More meets One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest meets Queen Elizabeth’s court. Happening in slow motion, under flickering light bulbs, complimented by another bizarre soundtrack of meowing cats and toy instruments.

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The models all perfected the “I am dosed out of my mind on psychiatric drugs, now where the hell am I?” look. Meanwhile the nurses were passing out candy “pills” to show-goers.

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Designer Thom Browne.

In the end: it was the most original, and slightly disturbing show I saw all week. And I loved it!

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2013-2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

REEM ACRA BRIDAL SPRING 2014: BACKSTAGE

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One of the best things about photographing bridal market week shows, is that it allows you to plan a million imaginary weddings in your head. Being up close and personal with so many gorgeous gowns, veils, and accessories inspires and endless stream of ideas. I’m now convinced if I ever get married, I’ll never be able to decide on just one dress.

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Even if Reem Acra was the sole designer of wedding dresses in the world, choosing just one would still be a difficult task. Gowns in every cut and color were visible in her Spring ’14 collection. Which also featured some of the most unique wedding veils and wraps I’ve ever come across.

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Oscar de la Renta Bridal 2014

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Every Oscar de la Renta show I’ve ever attended has been magical. But there’s something about Bridal, when it overwhelms you with tulle and lace, and let’s you indulge in every princess fantasy you never even knew you had that just makes it that much more of an experience.

Monday was my second Oscar bridal show, and while I loved last year’s collection’s Spanish influences, I ended up being just as big of a fan of the 2014 collection’s romanticism and sweetness.

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I’m sharing a few less photos than usual, since a portion of my backstage beauty Bridal Market Week content is due to end up online and in print for the August/September issue of BRIDES. (Expect to see more from the 4 other shows I covered this week once I’ve been given the all clear to post!) As always, I live-pinned a portion of the show on the OdlR bridal pinterest board as well.

I absolutely LOVED the hair accessories/head pieces this season:
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It’s a given that Oscar’s collections are always impeccable. But one thing that strikes me time after time is how well it’s all styled. Every detail down to the belts, accessories, and hair complements the clothing, and overall tone of the collection.

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