Peter Som S/S 2012: Backstage

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Peter Som’s Spring 2012 show was exploding with bursts of colorful– both on the runway and backstage.

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WELLA Professionals creative director Eugene Souleiman created a “rich girl gone bad”, Courtney Love meets the 1960’s influenced hair style that wasn’t “too ladylike”, to contrast with the ultra-feminine floral looks of the collection.

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Peter Som’s S/S ’12 inspiration board

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Extensions, waiting to be applied!

To get the look: Wella Professionals Perfect Styling Blow Dry Lotion and Velvet Amplifier were applied to damp hair, then blown dry. Hair was parted at the side, then curled, and misted with Wella Professionals Pro Ocean Spray. Next, Souleiman ran his fingers through hair, to tousel and break up curls.

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To finish the look, Wella Professionals color ambassador Aura Friedman added platinum extensions colored with pale rose-gold hues (shadowed at the root to help disguise the extensions) to add a 3-D look and focal point to hair. Extensions were secured with bobby pins to the side of the part, where a veil of hair was brushed over top to allow the color to peek through.

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Some of the products used

The finished look:
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Another reason the rose-gold tones were chosen? They flatter all skin tones and hair colors.

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MAC’s Tom Pecheux used a combination of MAC Fig. 1 Eye Shadow with MAC Pro Indian Ink Small Eye Shadow Pro Palette blended above the crease for a retro inspired look. To finish the face, MAC Innocence, Beware! Lipstick was rubbed onto lips for a subtle stained effect.

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ZOYA lead nail tech Sunshine Outing used ZOYA’s Erin to create a light “micro-glazed” effect.

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Overall, I thought the edgy yet still feminine beauty direction complemented the clothes quite well!
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My personal favorite

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2011-2012 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Katie Gallagher S/S 2012

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Katie Gallagher creates collections that completely embody a theme with more skill than any other young designer I have ever encountered. With a talent, vision, and work ethic that defies her years, Katie’s collections are a consistent favorite, season after season.

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For Spring, Katie was inspired by blood. “Not the blood of nightmares of brutality, but the blood that’s sanguine, living and the brightest red. Always moving, coursing, and restless inside us. All the while staying hidden to the outside world.”

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Every last detail of her show is executed to perfection. Hair and makeup looks are just inspired as Katie’s designs, this season drawing inspiration from the bloodstream (makeup) and the heart (hair). Even the set design (vials of blood) and hand-picked show music complements the designs.

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Nails by Color Club

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Makeup artist Javier Romero “imagined dipping the model’s face inside a blood vessel”, and created his own mascara to capture the precise look.

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Romero first applied MAC Mineralize Charged Water Moisturizer, followed by Matchmaster SPF15 Foundation to even out skin. MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural Foundation was dusted over the T-zone. For eyes, MAC Chromographic Pencil in Pro Basic Red was used around the upper lash line. MAC Pro Lash, MAC Mixing Medium, and Mac Pigment in Pro Basic Red were mixed together to create red mascara. Next, MAC 30 Lash was applied to upper lashes, and eyelids were glossed with MAC Pro Gloss Texture.

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For lips, Romero started with MAC Chromographic Pencil in Pro Basic Red, then blended MAC Pro Longwear Lipcolor in Lasting Lust. Finishing with MAC Pro Longwear Clear Gloss.

The finished look:
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Hair stylist Cesar Ramirez was also inspired by the blood concept, leading him to create a look inspired by the heart, and the movement of blood vessels.

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The complete finished look:
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Preparing for the show to begin

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My personal favorite look

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This jacket is another favorite

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See the full photo set here.

My coverage of Katie Gallagher’s previous shows:
Fall/Winter 2011
Spring/Summer 2011
Fall/Winter 2010

All Photos and Content ®2011-2012 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

The Lake and the Stars S/S 2012

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Design duo Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker of The Lake and the Stars took the inspiration for their Spring collection from a trip to Mexico City. Large “packs” of Mexican women going out at night (sometimes in their bath robes!) led them to reference both modern day Mexico, and the 1950’s.

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The sun-kissed “modernized retro” inspired designs were complimented by jewelry, and hardware (clasps and rings on the lingerie) by Anndra Neen, designed by sisters Phoebe and Annette Stephens.

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A closer look:
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Booties by Vince Camuto finished off the tropical glamazon look

All Photos and Content ®2011-2012 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Ohne Titel Fall/Winter 2011 Backstage

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Backstage at Ohne Titel, futuristic, goth, and “spacey” were the words on everyone’s lips.

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MAC Makeup artist Lisa Butler created a strong, smokey eye, that mimicked a cat-eye shape, without making the eye appear smaller.

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To get the look:
Start with MAC Studio Moisture Fix on the face. Touch up any imperfections with Studio Finish Concealer.

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New York Fashion Week 2011

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On eyes:
Blend Creme Shadow in “Blase” around the entire eye. Starting in the crease, blend into a point in the outer corner of the eye. Finish by blending in a straight line below the eye. Use Mac Eyeshadow “Charcoal Brown” in contours to add definition. Finish with Mac Eye Kohl “Smolder” lining the inner corner of top lashes.

On lips: Mac Glamglass “Entertain Me” was applied to the outer corners of lips.

Hair was inspired by NASA space suits. Jimmy Paul for Bumble and Bumble created a half up/half down modified corn-row look that left hair sleek, in order to balance out the large shoulders on the clothing.

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Extensions were woven in to add length and fullness.

The finished product:
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How to achieve this look: Hair was braided into four cornrows. Black thread was woven around the braids to pull them together, and keep them tight against the head.

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All photos ®2011 Maureen Kaveney for The Greyest Ghost.

The Blonds Fall/Winter 2011

The Blonds Fall 2011 show definitely earned a place on my short list of “most memorable” shows of the season. I went in knowing to expect glitz and glamour, and even a few hijinks. By night’s end, the show, at Milk Studios, had met my expectations, and more.

After a short video intro, the show began with the appearance of two Chinese dragons hopping down the runway.
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The two dragons “fought”, danced, and playfully pawed at the audience in the front row.
Sneak Peek: The Blonds

Celebrities like EVE, Aubrey O’Day, Miss J, and Jay Manuel, and Amanda Lepore laughed as the dragons entertained them.
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And then, the models appeared:
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The great thing about The Blonds is that while most of us probably will never wear anything like the amazing, theatrical costume-esque creations they send down the runway, once you see them in person, the desire is there. If I became a pop star tomorrow, would I want The Blonds to dress me? Definitely. All one needs is an incredibly special occasion to imagine themselves wearing such sparkling, imaginative clothing.

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This show is fantasy dressing at it’s finest.
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The Asian influenced collection referenced the theme in multiple ways, including chop sticks, fortune cookies, geisha girls, goddess statues, and of course, dragons. Every detail from the nail art, to the makeup, down to the impossibly bright, glittery shoes added to the look.

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One of my favorites.

Continue reading

Vena Cava S/S 2011: Backstage

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My very first show of Spring 2011 NYFW (and the first show I’ve ever fully covered backstage!) was Vena Cava. Held at Milk Studios, on the morning of September 9th, the atmosphere backstage pre-show was buzzing with activity. Some shows teeter on the brink of chaos, and others seem to move at a languorously slow turtle’s pace. Thankfully, when I arrived backstage, preparations at Vena Cava were running smoothly and right on time.

Hair was styled by celebrity hair stylistTed Gibson and his salon team. I caught up with Ted as he was explaining this season’s hair inspiration, and the styling process to a group of fellow bloggers:

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For Vena Cava S/S ’11, Ted was inspired by 1970’s Halston woman he’s seen in an old issue of VOGUE. The idea was to take a classic bun style, and update it for more modern times by adding texture.

The result was a sleek, but also slightly messy ballerina-esque style, topped off with a half turban of raw silk.
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To get the look, Ted and his team started with his Build It Blowdrying Spray to add texture and volume. The hair was then blown dry, and flat ironed straight. Tame It Shine Lotion was used to fight frizz, and smooth hair down on the top of the head. Hair was then finger-combed back into a low ponytail.
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Next, the ponytail was teased to create even more volume:
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Multiple elastics were used every 1-2 inches down the length of the ponytail, to help achieve a more textured appearance:
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Hair was then twisted and pressed forward into a slightly messy bun:
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The look was finalized by the addition of the raw silk turban. Starting at the back, the scarf was wrapped around the head twice, with the ends secured underneath the bun with bobby pins.
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The bun was then finished with Ted Gibson Beautiful Hold Hairspray.

The final look:
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With nails by Butter London.

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Along with Ted’s amazing hair skills, I also caught Mac’s makeup team in action:
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Christian McCullogh for MAC was inspired by Michelle Pfeiffer’s look in the movie “Scarface”. A blue eyeliner was drawn on the lid, with Midnight Blue shadow applied all over, with a dusting of Graphology over the top. Contrast shadow was used in the corners, and the lashes were coated with Haute & Naughty mascara. A matte orangy peach lip stick finished the look.

See Ted styling hair, and the makeup process here:

Intro by Tanya Davis of Beauty.com

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The look for spring was all dark eyes, bright cheeks, and bright lips, inspired by Michelle Pfeiffer in “Scarface”:
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Finished hair and makeup:
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Once the hair and makeup process was nearly completed, it was time for the models to get dressed:
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The result:
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The chunky wooden shoes and accessories were amazing:
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The designers checking the progress:
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Getting in order for the show:
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Final touch ups:
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Ted makes adjustments:
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A member of Ted’s team secures a turban:
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Final model checks:
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Waiting to begin:
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The end of the line, waiting for their turn:
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Success!
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Every detail in Vena Cava’s S/S ’11 show was perfectly complimentary. The gorgeous silk dresses and the turbans, the reds of the lipstick, the sleek hair, and the chunky wooden jewelry that added texture. I thought the collection showed a maturity for the brand, while still holding on to their past signatures like geometric patterns, flashes of color, and impeccable silks.

Thanks to Ted and his amazing team for letting me be a part of the backstage experience. If any of you ever get a chance to work with the Vena Cava team, or Ted Gibson, take it. Everyone I worked with backstage was at the top of their game. And being around Ted, and his fun, easy going personality makes it impossible not to smile.

Ted Gibson Backstage at Vena Cava
Ted Gibson, hair genius.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2010 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost