JENNY PACKHAM F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

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Jenny Packham’s Fall 2016 collection was influenced by the sparkle and glam of the 1980’s party scene, a topic which carried over into the hair and makeup inspiration as well.

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Makeup legend Bobbi Brown, using her eponymous line, created a glittery, yet imperfect look that appeared “as if models had done their makeup on the way to the show in a taxi”.

JENNY PACKHAM FALL-WINTER 2016 013 The show’s face chart: JENNY PACKHAM FALL-WINTER 2016 004

The finished look:

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Hair was by AVEDA.

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Michelle Saunders for essie developed nail art based on a star textile from the runway collection. Two looks were created, one using a light, natural color, and another using a very pale purple.

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To get the look:
Look one: Apply First Base Coat, followed by two coats of Mademoiselle. Using a small nail art brush, paint a petite gold star on both the thumb, and one other finger using Good as Gold. Finish with Good to Go Top Coat.

Look two: Apply First Base Coat, followed by two coats of Lilacism. Using a small nail art brush, paint a petite gold star on both the thumb, and one other finger using Good as Gold. Finish with Good to Go Top Coat.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

BANANA REPUBLIC F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

BANANA REPUBLIC FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 028 Banana Republic’s Fall collection was inspired by French women, so it’s only natural the beauty look for the show would feature an exaggerated cat eye.

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STILA’s Sarah Lucero created the look, dubbed “Camille”, that featured the aforementioned cat eye, feathery lashes, and two lip colors– a vibrant red, and a lighter pink nude.

Products used to get the look include: STILA Smudge Pot in black and brown, Eyes are the Window Shadow Palette in Mind, Stay ALl Day Waterproof Brow Color, HUGE Extreme Lash Mascara, and Color Balm Lipstick in Natasha, and Olivia.

The finished look:

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Cutler Salon’s Brian Buenaventura used REDKEN products to develop two looks inspired by a Parisian girl who is “chic but doesn’t care too much”. Featuring a low ponytail, with a “wispy front”, or hair that was down and romantically curled.

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To get the looks:

#1:

1. Prep the hair with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam and blow dry section by section, giving the hair volume and texture.
2. Give the hair a left side part.
3. Take a 1 1/4″ curling iron and create an “S wave” by angling the iron vertically as you curl. Repeat throughout the hair.
4. Finish by placing hair forward on the right side, leaving loose pieces in front to give it an easy, effortless feel.
5. Complete the look with Redken Quick Dry 18 Instant Finishing Spray.

#2:

1. Prep the hair with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam and blow dry section by section, giving the hair volume and texture.
2. Give the hair a perfect middle part, leaving loose hairs in front.
3. Gather the rest of the hair into a low ponytail.
4. Take a 6 inch black elastic cord and secure onto the hair. Allow the ends of the two elastic strands to fall and blend into the ponytail. – Via Cutler/Redken

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To complete the overall beauty look, nails were painted with PritiNYC’s Dancing Queen, and finished off with a coat of Priti Loves Matte top, then 2 in 1 top coat.

BANANA REPUBLIC FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 008 The complete finished look: BANANA REPUBLIC FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 019

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

SUNO F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

SUNO FALL-WINTER 2016- BACKSTAGE 015 Beauty wise, SUNO is a brand known for having gorgeous, yet understated backstage beauty looks for its shows. Natural, but with a touch of quirky. For Fall, Odile Gilbert for Kérastase created a “graphic yet chic” ponytail, featuring velvet satin ribbon, to texturize models’ hair.

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To get the look:

1. Prep and wash hair with Nutritive Bain Satin 1 and Nutritive Lait Vital.
2. On damp hair, apply the NEW! L’Incroyable Blowdry Heat Lotion all over the hair and Crème de la Crème to just the ends.
3. Next, part the hair down the middle and roughly blow-dry. After dry, apply Powder Bluff at the roots (for greasy roots) or V.I.P (for extra volume).
4. Then, pull hair back into a low ponytail and secure with an elastic. Gently loosen hair around the nape of the neck to give a lived in, natural look.
5. Spray hair all over with Laque Dentelle.
6. Next, take ribbon and wrap the ponytail, crisscrossing the ribbon down the hair. Tie the ribbon once 3/4 of the way down the ponytail.
7. Finish the style by spraying Laque Dentelle all over for a flexible, versatile hold.

-Via Kérastase

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NARS Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer created a clean, natural look that made the models appear “flushed and wind burned”, inspired by “aristocratic nomads”.

Products used to get the look include: On the face: NARSSkin Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer, Stick Concealer, Soft Velvet Loose Powder. On Cheeks: Leslie Audacious Lipstick On Brows: Oural Brow Gel On Lips: Unspeakable Velvet Lip Glide. Also dabbed on cheekbones and the forehead to create the sun-kissed look.

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To complete the look, Danielle Candido for Morgan Taylor created a dark, strong neutral nail.

To get the look: 2 coats of Latte Please were painted onto the model’s natural nails. The nail was then topped off with Need for Speed high shine top coat.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

JEREMY SCOTT F/W 2016: BACKSTAGE

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Backstage at Jeremy Scott — one of the most fun– and happy shows of fashion week, the mood was pure excitement. With as much careful consideration given to the beauty looks as the clothes, the big hair and bright makeup I found was definitely not disappointing. Eugene Souleiman, Global Creative Director Wella Professionals, created an over the top, “slightly Barbarella” inspired big hair look.

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To get the look: “Eugene started by prepping the hair using EIMI Sugar Lift with EIMI Perfect Setting on the ends. Over-applying the product gave the hair a chemically processed texture, making it easier to style and giving it the fifties look that is synonymous with classic pin-up style. On creating the look, Eugene shares: ‘We blew the hair out at the roots with EIMI Sugar Lift to give us a great base for the backcombing. It makes the hair feel a little bit more porous and processed which is wonderful for keeping volume.'”

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“Once the hair was dried using a large round brush, it was left to set in wide rollers before being brushed out.”

JEREMY SCOTT FALL-WINTER 2016 024 “Eugene applied EIMI Stay Essential hairspray to hold the style and teased the hair to make it even bigger. At the end of the day, perfect pin-up hair was the finishing touch that brought together the Barbie-esque, decades-inspired ‘Cowboys and Poodles’ runway look.” -Instructions via WELLA Professionals

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The finished look:

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MAC Cosmetic’s Key Makeup Artist, Kabuki (one of my favorite makeup geniuses of NYFW!) created a “Cowgirls in Space” pin up inspired look to compliment the funky collection. “I wanted the look to feel fresh, and very Jeremy Scott”. Bright pink lips were the focal point of the look, with a swipe of custom mixed electric blue eyeliner to enhance the eye.

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The custom mixed blue eyeliner.

To get the look:
Jeremy Scott - makeup instructions VIA MAC

Face Chart -Via MAC Cosmetics

The finished look:

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Last but not least, another one of my favorite backstage pro’s: Simcha Whitehill, AKA Miss Pop Nails, envisioned a stunning bright pastel nail look for each model. JEREMY SCOTT FALL-WINTER 2016 012

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“To complement Jeremy Scott’s Spring 2016 collection, Miss Pop used a line up of our five best bright lacquer shades. She painted elongated oval nail tips in each of the five shades, then added a cartoon-like flare on the pinkies in Alpine Snow to give the nails a shiny plastic look.” – Via OPI

Colors used include: Shorts Story, A Good Mandarin is Hard to Find, The Sun Never Sets, I just can’t Cope-Acabana, and To Infinity and Blue-yond. “One coat of one of each of those shades and then one coat of Kyoto pearl to get this muted metallic bright.” – Via Miss Pop

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The finished look:
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The runway show itself was just as fun:

JEREMY SCOTT FALL-WINTER 2016 003 It featured many retro, cartoon inspired outfits! JEREMY SCOTT FALL-WINTER 2016 001

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Karlie Kloss and Designer Jeremy Scott after the finale.

See the Full Photo Set Here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

SNEAK PEEK: FALL/WINTER 2016 NYFW – DAY ONE

Desigual:
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Ulla Johnson:
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Adam Selman:
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AREA:
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Rachel Antonoff:
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All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

DELPOZO S/S 2016

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DELPOZO is a brand that almost seems as if it would be more suitable to show at Paris fashion week. Frequently referred to as “demi-couture”, the brand’s epic, handmade collections are the highlight of my every NYFW, and the perfect way to end the frenzy of each season.

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Backstage, the look was all about a fresh face topped off with glitter eyes, and ultra-long, sleek hair.

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MAC lead makeup artist Monica Marmo described the look as having “skin super fresh like a flower, with metallic eyes for a little controversy.” This is “a woman from the future who is modern, but soft and beautiful.”

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Moroccanoil Creative Director Antonio Corral Calero created a very long, easy hairdo, with a twist– literally! Hair featured a small, twisted ponytail in the center.

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To get the look:

Apply 22-24″ extensions, for hair that is not naturally long.
Starting with damp hair, apply Moroccanoil Treatment and Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream to create the foundation of the style. Blow dry sleek and smooth.

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Once thoroughly dry, create a deep left side part. Gather 3″ sections at each side of the part and mist with hairspray. Comb sections back behind the ears and secure underneath the bulk of the hair at the nape of the neck with an elastic. This small ponytail should be hidden.
Flat iron all of the loose hair, gently rolling the iron from the mid-shaft to ends to create a natural bend.
Brush all of the loose hair smooth into a very low and loose ponytail – about mid-back – and secure with an elastic.
Use your finger to divide the ponytail in half above the elastic (creating a hole). Flip the ponytail up and through the hole to create the twisted style.
Set the style with a gentle mist of hairspray. — via Moroccanoil.

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Finally, Julie Kandalec for ESSIE created an adorable, subtle glitter nail that perfectly complimented the eye makeup, using Sparkle On Top.

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Two things I love the most about Delpozo collections: they always use interesting fabrics and materials, and play with volume. I can’t think of many other modern designers who have so much fun creating unique shapes and garments out of fabric.

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Spring also marked the introduction of a handbag collection:
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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2015-2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

CHROMAT S/S 2016

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I absolutely love photographing the Chromat show every season. Watching the brand grow from a small lingerie line, to the powerhouse of design and innovation they are today has been quite a treat.

And it’s virtually guaranteed that each season’s show will feature heart-stopping beauty looks:

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Dominque Samuel for MAYBELLINE New York created a bright, colorful but still sporty look to complement the SS16 collection.

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To get the look:

Samuel perfected models’ skin with Fit Me! Matte + Poreless Foundation, followed by Face Studio Master Conceal. Next, DreamLumi Touch Highlighting Conceer was applied under eys and nose to reflect light. Face Studio Master Contour was used to shape and accentuate the face. Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24HR in Tenacious Teal was applied to create the blue brows. Lip Studio Color Blue in Cherry Cherry Bang Bang was applied under eyes, with Baby Lips Moisturizing Lip Gloss in Taupe with me applied to add shine to the upper lids. One coat of The Falsies Push Up Drama Mascara finished the eye makeup, with Baby Lips Balm applied to lips to complete the look.

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The finished look:
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KAREN WALKER S/S 2016

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Karen Walker impresses me season after season with her fun, quirky take on clothes that are– gasp!– actually wearable. While I love avant garde fashion, or flowing gorgeous ballgowns as much as the next girl, it’s nice to see impeccably designed clothing that is suitable for everyday wear, and affordable.

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The fact that designs some of the best sunglasses around also helps.

And like many of my other favorite designers, Karen has fun with her collections’ themes and inspiration. For Spring, that inspiration was “life in Zvedzny Gorodok, AKA Star City” in the Soviet Union. Once a secret city where Soviet astronauts lived, little details such as spate suite-esque zippers, utilitarian garments, and star shaped earrings helped visualize that inspiration.

The Sephora PRO team translated the astronaut/space theme into a glam look, featuring an enchanting blue eye.

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KATIE GALLAGHER S/S 2016

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Katie Gallagher’s Spring 2016 collection was a love letter to her longtime NYC neighborhood, Chinatown. Featuring “bright colors, bold shapes, and strong aromatic scents that define the culture…” the clothing featured brighter colors this season, such as yellow and red, and plenty of texture.

Backstage, the theme of Chinatown translated into a modern Geisha inspired lip, and an updated chignon, that featured a twisted bun woven with rabbit hair scrunchies. Joseph DiMaggio for DAVINES led the hair team.

To get the look:
1. Prep clean hair with Davines More Inside This Is A Volume Boosting Mousse, distributing evenly from roots to ends.
2. Gather the hair on top of the head into a high ponytail with your hands.
3. Pull the tail through half way to create a loop at the base of the pony, securing with an elastic.
4. Wrap a (fur) scrunchie around the elastic as a base to wrap the tail around.
5. Flatten the loop toward the back of the head to create a half chignon and secure with bobby pins.
6. Use a topsy turvy tool to pull the tail through the fur scrunchie, repeating as many times needed to come to the end of the ponytail, creating a woven effect.
7. Clean up fly aways with Davines More Inside This Is A Medium Hair Spray.
8. Finish the look with NEW Davines More Inside This Is A Shimmering Mist for shine and polish.
-Via Davines

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The finished look

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