THOM BROWNE S/S 2017

THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 022 Thom Browne’s shows never cease to blow my mind. Season after season, they just keep getting better, more theatrical, and even more innovative than ever. The gorgeous clothing is so consistently fabulous, so photogenic, that I feel privileged seeing its runway debut, and end up still thinking about it years later.

For Spring, the show took place in a colorful tiled set, which led VOGUE to liken it to a ‘Stepford Wives’ pool party’. A description I found quite accurate.  Upon entering the venue, photographers were given white Thom Browne lab coat-style jackets to wear, to further the immaculate illusion.

Backstage, the beauty look focused on big bombshell hair, “fake” tans, and multi-colored pastel lips and nails.

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Sil Bruinsma for MAC used MAC’s Pro Longwear Foundation in NC42 to create the orange, fake tan look on models faces. Models got pastel blue, or green lips, depending on skin tone. Liberal layers of mascara were applied to lashes to create a smudged look. With the makeup being finished off with a line of white acrylic paint looping around models’ necks to show a clear line between their fake tanned faces, and untanned bodies.

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Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul created a voluminous retro influenced hairdo to complement the collections old school pool party vibe. (After the hair was curled and set, large floral swim caps were placed on model’s heads until the show.)

TO GET THE LOOK: 1. Apply bumble and bumble Prep. Spray thickening hairspray and Surf spray throughout. 2. Pin into a curling iron set. 3. Once hair is set, let down and brush out curls. 4. Backcomb hair to add volume and lift at the roots. 5. Keep the look in place with Strong Finish. – Via Bumble and Bumble.

The finished look:

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One of Stephen Jones’ epic hats created for the show.

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THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 043 The male models in the show wore bird, and cat heads/costumes.

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Thom Browne’s fashion shows are very frequently more like theatre, with this years’ offering  consisting of a play in 3 acts. The arrival of the girls–all at once, the de-cloaking of their outerwear, and the swimsuit reveal at the end.

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The arrival of the models.

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The Queen and her court.

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The big reveal.

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The classic Thom Browne dog bags were updated for Spring.

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Act 3:
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THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 123 The swimsuit reveal! THOM BROWNE SPRING-SUMMER 2017 119

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ® 2016-2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

ROSIE ASSOULIN F/W 2014

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I went in to the Rosie Assoulin show not knowing much about the designer other than she was developing a strong reputation for evening wear, and that she’d earned a place on many “designers to watch” lists over the past year. What I found when I arrived completely blew me away.

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Most models were in the midst of getting the finishing touches put on their hair and makeup looks for the show. But a few sneak peeks of the clothing happened here and there, showing glimpses of what was to come.

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MAC Executive Director of Makeup Artistry Lyne Desnoyers at work.

Together with Assoilin, who wanted the makeup to focus on “19th century rouge”, Desnoyers created a down to earth look that featured an almost bare face with berry stained lips, and a bright pop of blush high on the cheekbones. Peach, Rust, and Red tones were used on cheeks, depending on the model’s skin tone.

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Breakdown of the look/products used, via the MAC face chart

The finished look:

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Allen Wood for Bumble and Bumble created an updated ponytail meant to mimic the effortless look of hair tucked into a woman’s coat.

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To get the look, hair was sprayed with Thickening Spray, Surf Spray, and Bumble and Bumble Prep, then dried. A “quick roll” at the nape of the neck twisted the ponytail, which was then secured with pins.

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Finished hair and makeup:

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One of the things that stood out the most to me, upon viewing this collection, was the wonderful use of bright, intense colors as accent points that added a pop to each gown.

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Last but not least, my favorite dress. Assembled from hundreds of pieces of silk and velvet.

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2014 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost