KATIE GALLAGHER F/W 2016: BEHIND THE SCENES

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Today I had the pleasure of spending the afternoon shooting behind the scenes images at Katie Gallagher’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection press preview at The Roxy Hotel, in Tribeca.

Entitled “Veiled”, the monochromatic collection was influenced by Gothic architecture, stained glass, Harry Clarke illustrations, and Gallagher’s own very first collection “Veil” from Spring/Summer 2010.

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I’ve photographed Katie’s shows every season for the last 6 years, and it was even more exciting to see the line than usual, and to spend multiple hours noticing the subtle details, and craftsmanship of the garments.

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It’s been wonderful to see Katie grow as a designer over the years, and finally be recognized for all her hard work. I’m excited to see what the future has in store for her!

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Designer Katie Gallagher.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

DELPOZO S/S 2016

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DELPOZO is a brand that almost seems as if it would be more suitable to show at Paris fashion week. Frequently referred to as “demi-couture”, the brand’s epic, handmade collections are the highlight of my every NYFW, and the perfect way to end the frenzy of each season.

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Backstage, the look was all about a fresh face topped off with glitter eyes, and ultra-long, sleek hair.

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MAC lead makeup artist Monica Marmo described the look as having “skin super fresh like a flower, with metallic eyes for a little controversy.” This is “a woman from the future who is modern, but soft and beautiful.”

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Moroccanoil Creative Director Antonio Corral Calero created a very long, easy hairdo, with a twist– literally! Hair featured a small, twisted ponytail in the center.

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To get the look:

Apply 22-24″ extensions, for hair that is not naturally long.
Starting with damp hair, apply Moroccanoil Treatment and Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream to create the foundation of the style. Blow dry sleek and smooth.

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Once thoroughly dry, create a deep left side part. Gather 3″ sections at each side of the part and mist with hairspray. Comb sections back behind the ears and secure underneath the bulk of the hair at the nape of the neck with an elastic. This small ponytail should be hidden.
Flat iron all of the loose hair, gently rolling the iron from the mid-shaft to ends to create a natural bend.
Brush all of the loose hair smooth into a very low and loose ponytail – about mid-back – and secure with an elastic.
Use your finger to divide the ponytail in half above the elastic (creating a hole). Flip the ponytail up and through the hole to create the twisted style.
Set the style with a gentle mist of hairspray. — via Moroccanoil.

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Finally, Julie Kandalec for ESSIE created an adorable, subtle glitter nail that perfectly complimented the eye makeup, using Sparkle On Top.

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Two things I love the most about Delpozo collections: they always use interesting fabrics and materials, and play with volume. I can’t think of many other modern designers who have so much fun creating unique shapes and garments out of fabric.

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Spring also marked the introduction of a handbag collection:
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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2015-2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost.

BETSEY JOHNSON S/S 2016: BACKSTAGE

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I had no idea when I arrived backstage at Betsey Johnson’s Spring 2016 show that it would be her last. After 50 years in the industry, Betsey has retired from showing at NYFW!

Betsey’s shows were always guaranteed to be a highlight of fashion week, a bright spot in the sometimes dreary and over-serious show calendar. From her cartwheels, to her vibrant collections, to her over the top beauty looks backstage, her shows definitely won the award for “most fun”.

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Danielle Candido for Morgan Taylor Lacquer created three incredibly looks to compliment the themes, AKA decades of the SS16 collection.

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First, there was a sparkly red manicure, akin to Dorothy’s ruby slippers in The Wizard of Oz.

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To get the look:
Apply one coat of Pretty Woman, followed by one coat of New York State of Mind glitter polish. Complete the nail by using 2 coats of glitter shade Rare as Rubies, and finish with Make it Last topcoat.

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Look two was a “graphic mod” nail, in black and white.

To get the look:
Use one coat of All White Now. Using a nail brush, paint on various sized lines using Little Black Dress, and Could Have Foiled Me.

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The third and final look was a psychedelic marbled manicure.

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To get the look:
Create a marbled nail using All White Now, Don’t Touch Me I’m Radioactive, Pink Flame-ingo, Sitting Pretty, Don’t Worry Be Brilliant, and Water Baby.

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The Kryolan makeup team created two looks to compliment the different themes of the collection. A dark, smokey eye, and a graphic rainbow eye/eyebrow!

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I’m so glad I was there to witness Betsey’s final show– which spanned all 50 decades of her career. She truly is a living fashion legend!

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See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2015-2016 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

CHROMAT S/S 2016

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I absolutely love photographing the Chromat show every season. Watching the brand grow from a small lingerie line, to the powerhouse of design and innovation they are today has been quite a treat.

And it’s virtually guaranteed that each season’s show will feature heart-stopping beauty looks:

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Dominque Samuel for MAYBELLINE New York created a bright, colorful but still sporty look to complement the SS16 collection.

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To get the look:

Samuel perfected models’ skin with Fit Me! Matte + Poreless Foundation, followed by Face Studio Master Conceal. Next, DreamLumi Touch Highlighting Conceer was applied under eys and nose to reflect light. Face Studio Master Contour was used to shape and accentuate the face. Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24HR in Tenacious Teal was applied to create the blue brows. Lip Studio Color Blue in Cherry Cherry Bang Bang was applied under eyes, with Baby Lips Moisturizing Lip Gloss in Taupe with me applied to add shine to the upper lids. One coat of The Falsies Push Up Drama Mascara finished the eye makeup, with Baby Lips Balm applied to lips to complete the look.

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The finished look:
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KAREN WALKER S/S 2016

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Karen Walker impresses me season after season with her fun, quirky take on clothes that are– gasp!– actually wearable. While I love avant garde fashion, or flowing gorgeous ballgowns as much as the next girl, it’s nice to see impeccably designed clothing that is suitable for everyday wear, and affordable.

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The fact that designs some of the best sunglasses around also helps.

And like many of my other favorite designers, Karen has fun with her collections’ themes and inspiration. For Spring, that inspiration was “life in Zvedzny Gorodok, AKA Star City” in the Soviet Union. Once a secret city where Soviet astronauts lived, little details such as spate suite-esque zippers, utilitarian garments, and star shaped earrings helped visualize that inspiration.

The Sephora PRO team translated the astronaut/space theme into a glam look, featuring an enchanting blue eye.

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KATIE GALLAGHER S/S 2016

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Katie Gallagher’s Spring 2016 collection was a love letter to her longtime NYC neighborhood, Chinatown. Featuring “bright colors, bold shapes, and strong aromatic scents that define the culture…” the clothing featured brighter colors this season, such as yellow and red, and plenty of texture.

Backstage, the theme of Chinatown translated into a modern Geisha inspired lip, and an updated chignon, that featured a twisted bun woven with rabbit hair scrunchies. Joseph DiMaggio for DAVINES led the hair team.

To get the look:
1. Prep clean hair with Davines More Inside This Is A Volume Boosting Mousse, distributing evenly from roots to ends.
2. Gather the hair on top of the head into a high ponytail with your hands.
3. Pull the tail through half way to create a loop at the base of the pony, securing with an elastic.
4. Wrap a (fur) scrunchie around the elastic as a base to wrap the tail around.
5. Flatten the loop toward the back of the head to create a half chignon and secure with bobby pins.
6. Use a topsy turvy tool to pull the tail through the fur scrunchie, repeating as many times needed to come to the end of the ponytail, creating a woven effect.
7. Clean up fly aways with Davines More Inside This Is A Medium Hair Spray.
8. Finish the look with NEW Davines More Inside This Is A Shimmering Mist for shine and polish.
-Via Davines

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The finished look

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DESIGUAL S/S 2016: BACKSTAGE

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DESIGUAL definitely wins the award for funkiest show of the season. With “Japanese Street Fashion” inspired hair, collaged blue jean nails, and an on trend coral lip, the backstage beauty for the SS16 show stood out amongst the straight hair, and neutral beauty looks commonly found among the rest.

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Edward Lampley for amika created the two fun, braided hair styles for the show.
One, a more traditional corn row style, and a second winding zig-zag braid style, were distributed amongst the models.

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Styling look 1.

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JEREMY SCOTT SPRING/SUMMER 2016: BACKSTAGE

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Backstage at a Jeremy Scott show is usually one of the most colorful, fun, and lively environments one can possibly encounter during New York Fashion Week.

I always enjoy shows with more theatrical themes, that carry over not just in the collection, but to the beauty looks, and production as well. So this show was my own idea of thematic heaven! For Spring/Summer 2016, Jeremy Scott was inspired by John Waters, specifically the movie crybaby. If you haven’t ever seen it–please watch it asap and prepare to be inspired by the amazing beauty and fashion, and maybe fall in love with Johnny Depp a little bit.

To achieve that “Crybaby” look, big, bold hair is essential. WELLA’s Eugene Souleiman delivered, in the form of giant wigs, teased and backcombed to achieve the highest volume possible, then curled.

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Gigi Hadid being prepped for the show

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Wigs waiting to be placed

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Thom Brown Spring/Summer 2016

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It should be pretty apparent to readers of this site, by now, that Thom Browne is one of my favorite designers, and my hands down must see show during New York Fashion Week.

More sartorial spectacle and feast for the senses than traditional fashion show, Browne’s bi-annual women’s collection is presented in a unique, innovative way each season. As mentioned in the wonderful VOGUE.com review of the SS16 collection, it’s a tradition for the show’s theme to be tantamount to the theme of the clothing. There is no guess work for critics trying to decipher the current season’s inspiration.

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For SS16, this was Japan. Specifically Japanese School Girls.

Beauty wise, this translated into geisha inspired makeup, and traditional school girl braids– updated in a most untraditional way– with the braids hanging “upside down”!

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