THOM BROWNE S/S 2017

Thom Browne’s shows never cease to blow my mind. Season after season, they just keep getting better, more theatrical, and even more innovative than ever. The gorgeous clothing is so consistently fabulous, so photogenic, that I feel privileged seeing its runway debut, and end up still thinking about it years later.

For Spring, the show took place in a colorful tiled set, which led VOGUE to liken it to a ‘Stepford Wives’ pool party’. A description I found quite accurate.  Upon entering the venue, photographers were given white Thom Browne lab coat-style jackets to wear, to further the immaculate illusion.

Backstage, the beauty look focused on big bombshell hair, “fake” tans, and multi-colored pastel lips and nails.

Sil Bruinsma for MAC used MAC’s Pro Longwear Foundation in NC42 to create the orange, fake tan look on models faces. Models got pastel blue, or green lips, depending on skin tone. Liberal layers of mascara were applied to lashes to create a smudged look. With the makeup being finished off with a line of white acrylic paint looping around models’ necks to show a clear line between their fake tanned faces, and untanned bodies.

Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul created a voluminous retro influenced hairdo to complement the collections old school pool party vibe. (After the hair was curled and set, large floral swim caps were placed on model’s heads until the show.)

TO GET THE LOOK: 1. Apply bumble and bumble Prep. Spray thickening hairspray and Surf spray throughout. 2. Pin into a curling iron set. 3. Once hair is set, let down and brush out curls. 4. Backcomb hair to add volume and lift at the roots. 5. Keep the look in place with Strong Finish. – Via Bumble and Bumble.

The finished look:

One of Stephen Jones’ epic hats created for the show.

The male models in the show wore bird, and cat heads/costumes.

Thom Browne’s fashion shows are very frequently more like theatre, with this years’ offering  consisting of a play in 3 acts. The arrival of the girls–all at once, the de-cloaking of their outerwear, and the swimsuit reveal at the end.

The arrival of the models.

The Queen and her court.

The big reveal.

The classic Thom Browne dog bags were updated for Spring.

Act 3:

The swimsuit reveal!

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ® 2016-2017 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

SNEAK PEEK: NYFW SS2014 DAY FIVE

Delpozo

Thakoon

Oscar de la Renta Bridal 2013

Yesterday, instead of  dreading another manic Monday, I spent my morning deeply submerged in the world of Oscar de la Renta Bridal.

This was my very first Bridal show, which I can say was even more magical than a “regular” fashion show. I was one of three photographers given a unprecendented 3+ hours of show access, chosen to “Live Pin” the show on Pinterest. The project totally blew up on twitter, and has resulted in some pretty crazy press.

Everything about the show was beautiful. From the so gorgeous you could cry dresses, to the flowers– and little flower girls– even the always on point musical choices. I’ve long felt that Oscar can do no wrong, but seeing all the lacy, delicate and intricately detailed bridal gowns up close and personal just proved to me what a mastery the man has of his craft. Some of my other favorite designers still have occasional seasons of “misses”. But never, ever Oscar.

I absolutely love love loved that “something blue” was incorporated into the show. As one Pinterest commenter mentioned, a handful of the looks were very “Spanish Royalty”, which Oscar being Oscar, is oh so fitting.

Maybe it’s just my photojournalism education making me want to “keep it real”, but as usual, I’ve just done a subtle brightening of colors. A fashion show isn’t exactly the place to go mad abusing photoshop actions on your photos. And really, everything was already so exquisite, why mess with perfection?

Below, more of my favorites from the Pinterest board, with a few never before seen shots thrown in for good measure.

Backstage prep

Such gorgeous hair!

My all-time favorite flowers made an appearance.

These gloves!

Perfection:

The show opener!

The variety of styles and fits of the gowns, to me, made the show even better than I had expected!

So adorable!

And now for my favorites:

Never have I heard a show’s audience audibly gasp like they did when the red finale gown appeared on the runway. So very “Queen Isabella, meets Lydia’s wedding gown in Beetlejuice”.

See the full photo set here.

All Photos and Content ®2012 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Sneak Peek: NYFW S/S 2012 DAY SIX

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Preen Backstage

Preen: Before the Show

Chris Benz Backstage

Chris Benz

Chris Benz

Chris Benz

The word of the day was definitely “neon”.

All Photos ®Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Sneak Peek: NYFW S/S 2012 DAY ONE

Yuna Yang

Hyden Yoo

ODILON

Rachel Comey

®2011 Rachel Scroggins/The Greyest Ghost

Graeme Armour Fall/Winter 2010

This past Valentine’s day, Graeme Armour’s presented his fall 2010 at MILK studios–marking his first time showing in the US. The Scottish designer and Central St. Martin’s graduate spent 3 years working on and off under Alexander McQueen. So it’s no surprise this 28 year old designer’s name has been showing up on quite a few “designers to watch” lists.

The look for fall was futuristic mixed with sporty. Leather and wool jackets were worn over skin tight biker shorts.

Materials used include leather, metal, metallic fabrics, and mesh, all embellished with Swarovski crystals.

Along with a crowd full of influential buyers and editors, Hamish Bowles of VOGUE was there, checking out the collection:

The full presentation:

I expect Graeme’s name to start popping up more and more in the fashion world. Not surprisingly–his futuristic tailored designs have already caught the eye of Lady Gaga. The fall collection, which was inspired by Yoko Ono, has definitely put this up and coming designer on fashion’s radar.

Read a great interview with Graeme in the Herald Scotland here.

The full photo set can be seen here.

All photos and content ®2010 RS/The Greyest Ghost

Betsey Johnson Fall/Winter 2010

I’d been meaning to wait to post about the Betsey Johnson show until after I’d uploaded the youtube video of the full show. But I still haven’t gotten around to splitting the 20+ minute video into smaller portions. So here is the first half of my coverage of the Valentine’s day fashion show:

When I arrived at the Altman building, after a short mix up where my name couldn’t be found on the list, I was given a standing ticket. Fast forward to right before the show started, and there were still some empty seats. I snagged a second row seat, which turned out to be right behind Betsey’s family!

The show began with “Bang Bang” by Nancy Sinatra and was opened by Kelly Osbourne strutting down the straw covered runway. The mood was one of the happiest of any nyfw show I’ve ever attended. The first round of models carried fake guns and were accessorized to look like Cowboys. Gun-printed blazers and tops completed the look. Shortly after, the Indians came out, followed by Banditos, and “Brothelettes”.

Masked Models.

A Model with a Thigh Holster.

It was rather hard to both film the show and take photos, so I didn’t shoot every look. I was a bit worried during the show. However seeing them now, I actually love the silhouette look of the photos I got, compared to the traditional end of runway, straight on shots.

After quite a variety of masked and decorated characters, the more formal dresses (the “Madames”) began to appear:

Betsey’s usual emphasis on tutus and ballerina inspired prom looks was absent in favor of more sleek satin rufffled and bustled dresses and coats.

More velvet for fall! With a slightly Victorian twist.

I Love It!

Chiffon and Velvet Dress.

Another interpretation in the same textured fabric.

After the last of the formal wear–Kelly Osbourne in a black lace wedding dress, the runway briefly darkened. When the lights came back on, they showcased a touching tribute to Alexander McQueen (a last minute addition by Betsey):

Members of the audience clapped and cheered, and were visibly moved by the tribute.

The happy mood continued when a group of 4 models flipped up their coat tails to reveal the word “love” on their bloomers:

Finally, Betsey herself appeared, dressed like a jail bird, and dancing down the runway. First she stopped to give stylist Patricia Field a quick twirl:

Then she continued her waltz, finishing with her traditional cartwheel at the end of the runway:

Betsey Greeting Her Daughter and Granddaughter.

For their final lap around the runway, a parade of models came out dancing with giant inflatable hearts, and were greeted by a standing ovation:

Some Played Volleyball With the Hearts!

Betsey Dancing With the Models.

This season, Betsey’s biggest inspiration was her own design archive.* The collection of classic prints, stripes, formal dresses of all types, and velvet mixed Betsey’s greatest hits with the best of fall 2010’s trends. All of it being presented in such a fun, exciting manner (in one of the longest, most unique runway shows I’ve ever attended) insured Betsey Johnson was a fashion week favorite for me!

*source: Style.com
All Content and Images ®2010 RS/The Greyest Ghost

Jeremy Laing Fall/Winter 2010

The green dress is my favorite.

After attending the Frank Tell presentation at MILK on February 12th, my friend Vyque and I decided to stop by Jeremy Laing right down the hall. The presentation was almost over, but we managed to catch the last set of looks before it ended.

Lots of draping, leather, and fur:

I liked what I saw, even if it was only a portion of the many looks. (After reading through the show’s program it sounds like we missed a LOT of fur!!) I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on Jeremy, and hopefully can catch his whole presentation next season.

Jeremy doing an interview after the presentation.

All Photos and Content ®2010 RS/The Greyest Ghost

Faces of Fashion Week: Carine Roitfeld

Spotted: Leaving Diane von Furstenberg’s f/w show.
2/14/2010. Bryant Park.

My second encounter with the always lovely Carine.
View the first here.

®2010 RS/The Greyest Ghost

Katie Gallagher F/W 2010

Designer Katie Gallagher presented her fall/winter 2010 collection last Monday, February 15th at the Soho Grand hotel. When I first arrived, the space was so crowded it was nearly impossible to see the clothing. After a short while, the crowds cleared and I could see the entirety of the presentation. Which was gorgeous:

Entitled “The Heart of the Woods and What I Found There”, the collection like the previous season, was inspired by one of Katie’s paintings ““Everything I make starts with my paintings, which I’ve done every season prior to construction. I love to try to re-create a three-dimensional version of whatever I’ve drawn; it requires pretty unconventional pattern-making.” *

Half of the collection was all black, and the other half a mix of white, silver, and cream. The combination was a beautiful collection of sheer leggings, tailored dresses, and satin, beaded, and leather jackets. The juxtaposition of materials would seem overwhelming in the hands of some designers, but Gallagher’s designs smoothly blend everything together to create something quite beautiful and ethereal.

The entire presentation was viewed with only natural light from the windows streaming in. Trees surrounded the models, and even their fingernails, which were talon-like with burned tips, took on an organic quality.

Hair was equally wild, and big. With tribal-esque eyeliner to match:

Katie with her models.

Post-show.

Beloved for her design sensibility which seems to be a mix of one part Rick Owens, one part dance wear, and one part organic sci-fi, Katie has been popping up on quite a few “up and coming designers” lists. If you’re smart, you’ll keep an eye on this promising young designer’s work!

See the full photo set here.
For stock photos visit ELLE.com (*Designer quote via Elle.com)